Journey through the land of sunsets from Marrakech to Agadir
Bright colors of Morocco with a slight flair of French chic. Towers of minarets supporting the sky, noisy markets, the original name of which “souk” [bough] is not entirely euphonious for the perception of Russian ears, and picturesque landscapes will accompany you throughout your independent journey through Morocco, a fabulous country in North Africa.
Best time to travel to Marrakech and Agadir
It's a great time to travel Marrakech to Agadir from mid-March to mid-May, and ideally - from early September to November. In the summer months, Marrakech is quite hot for long walks, and in winter there will be no opportunity to swim in the waters of the Atlantic Ocean.
Features of independent travel in Morocco
When planning your trip to Morocco, be guided by the seasons. For example, when traveling for 7 days in the spring, devote 4 days to Marrakesh and 3 days to Agadir (the coastal waters have not yet warmed up to a comfortable temperature for swimming, so the maximum that is possible is to breathe the ocean breeze). In summer, on the contrary, allocate two days, maximum three, for Marrakech, and spend the rest of the time on the coast. But those who love exceptional harmony and balance should go on a trip in early October, when the water and air temperatures are ideal for both swimming and excursions.
If you have driving experience in Arab countries, then it is best to travel from Marrakesh to Agadir book a car in advance and not depend on intercity bus schedules. Otherwise, use the best ground carrier in Morocco - bus company STM .
Marrakesh
A city full of colors and aromas, picturesquely framed from the south Atlas Mountains, and in the north - hills of Jebileh. To the northeast of the city lies the foundation founded by the Almoravid dynasty of emirs of Morocco in the 12th century. Palmeraie garden, which has more than 100 thousand palm trees, luxury resorts and magnificent golf courses.
Marrakesh's middle name is Pink City, which he received for the bright pink color of the walls of the medina. The Medina of Marrakesh, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is its main attraction. A labyrinth of narrow streets, houses, bazaars and workshops - and towers above all of this Koutoubia Mosque. To the west of the medina lies Ville Nouvelle area, built during the years of the French protectorate in the 20th century. Most travelers stay in its neighborhoods Hivernage And Gueliz, where many hotels, shops and restaurants are concentrated. For excursions around Marrakech, you can choose or stick to a rich classic program.
How to get to Marrakech
From Russia to Marrakech no direct flights. The best option when you do not need to obtain a visa ( When entering the country for a period of less than 90 days, citizens of the Russian Federation are given a stamp and no visa fee is charged) book airline tickets Royal air Maroc, with a connection in Casablanca.
Other airlines operate flights with connections in one of the European cities. Traveling with an open Schengen visa can be interesting. In this case, you can book flights with parking in Paris, Lisbon, Barcelona or Zurich and visit these cities during your Moroccan voyage. If you don’t have a visa, then simply choose flights on European airlines with connections of 1 to 2 hours.
From Moscow to Marrakesh, in addition Royal air Maroc, operates flights TAP Portugal, Iberia, Air France other.
From Saint-Petersburg The airline flies to Marrakech via Paris or Amsterdam KLM.
Where to live. Best hotels in Marrakech
For aesthetes, the hotel is perfect, where Winston Churchill loved to paint in the serene orange gardens. Located right next to the walls of the medina, this monument of the Art Deco era is still considered one of the most spectacular, largely thanks to the reconstruction carried out by the French designer Jacques Garcia.
Another significant place is considered to be riad hotels - in total, this network in the medina unites hundreds of houses with atriums. Riad Madani- one of the most charming of them.
If you want to live away from noisy city streets, you should pay attention to the hotel. The hotel is located outside the city. It is a luxurious 27-room rural estate full of rose bushes, built in the style of a small traditional Moroccan village. Its undoubted advantage is an amazing view of the majestic panorama of the mountains, as well as two restaurants, a swimming pool, a spa and three boutiques that sell creations of local artisans and stylish antiques.
Meal'n'Real. Sights of Marrakech
Start your city tour from the gardens Koutoubia mosque. Its 77-meter-high minaret is one of the most impressive in the region. Go through Youssef Ben Tachfine Square and continue along Sidi Mimoune street. You'll soon find yourself at one of the medina's most impressive gates, the colorful Bab Agnaou. Stands nearby Kasbah mosque with a turquoise minaret. Behind the high wall are located nearby Saadian tombs. Elegantly decorated with Moroccan mosaics and carved marble and alabaster, the tombs house the ashes of more than 60 members of the Saadian dynasty. The tombs are open to the public daily from 8.30 to 11.45 and from 14.30 to 17.30. The entrance ticket costs 10 Dh.
Then head to the majestic remains El Badi Palace. To get to it you will have to walk through a labyrinth of streets Kasbah quarter and go through Gate Bab Berrima. The “incomparable” palace, built at the end of the 16th century, belonged to Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur. The reign of the Sultan is associated with the highest prosperity of Morocco, confirmation of this is the El Badi Palace, which even in ruins bears the imprint of its former splendor. After walking through the remains of the palace, return to Place des Ferblantiers and continue along streets of Bahia Bab Mellah, bordering the densely built-up alleys of the former Jewish ghetto.
Soon you will be near Bahia Palace. This late 19th century palace is famous for its magnificent chambers, atriums, fountains and green gardens. Turn to street Riad Ezitoune El Jadid, along which the palaces of the 19th century nobles stand, and constantly step to the left until you reach Djemaa el Fna Square.
For many Djemaa el Fna square is the concentration of all the exoticism of the city. From dawn until late at night, snake charmers, wizards, henna artists and numerous merchants bustle here. Anyone coming here should visit Cafe de France (Place Jemaa El Fna, at the entrance to Derb Dabachi), which, among other things, is one of the best points for viewing the square. Grab a table on the third floor terrace, order mint tea and enjoy the taste while watching life in full swing in the heart of the city. The best time is from 16.00 to sunset.
If you are not a victim of stereotypes and do not try to pass yourself off as a “local” when traveling around the city, then do not deprive yourself of the pleasure of taking a ride in horse-drawn carriage along the city walls of the 11th century. The place to select a carriage is located at the walls of Djemaa el Fna near Bab el Jdid(one hour trip – 150 Dh, no point in haggling – fixed price.One circle along the walls takes about two hours).
You can combine walking around the city with studying national culture and architecture at the once largest university of theology in the Maghreb. Founded back in the 16th century Madrasah Ben Youssef, today one of the greatest Islamic cultural heritage monuments. Inside the building, the rooms and arched passages surrounding the courtyard are decorated with traditional Moroccan mosaics, intricately carved cedar paneling and ornate decorative plasterwork. Included in price entrance ticket (60 Dh) included visit to neighboring Musée de Marrakech, which displays items from local life and Islamic culture. Both museums are open every day from 9.00 to 18.30.
One of the must-visit places is the botanical Garden Majorelle- green thickets of bamboo, cacti and an endless variety of different plants, complemented by a beautiful architectural ensemble in blue tones. The design of the garden was started in the 1920s by the French artist Jacques Majorelle and completed later by Yves Saint Laurent. The garden is open for visits daily from 8.00 to 17.30, entrance costs 40 Dh.
To relieve fatigue and be ready for new travels, go to. The best of them correspond to all the dreams inspired by the tales of the Thousand and One Nights: Les Bains de Marrakech (at Derb Sedra 2 Bab Agnaou. Open daily from 9.00 to 20.00. One visit costs 150 Dh) and a luxurious hammam in the hotel (rue Abou Abbas El Sebtig. Open from 9.00 to 21.00, one session from 1000 Dh).
Cafes and restaurants in Marrakech
Souk Quessabine– a tiny alley branching off from the northwest corner of Djemaa el Fna. Here, a dozen stalls sell meshui - a lamb carcass roasted whole on a spit in a pit coated with clay.
The best place for brunch is Le Jardin (souk El Jeld Sidi Abdelaziz, 32) is a wonderful addition to the local bazaar, located in a 17th-century riad and decorated in a style vaguely reminiscent of the 60s of the last century. Late breakfast (served from 11.00 to 15.00) consists of a date and banana smoothie or orange juice, coffee, tea and Moroccan pancakes with almo (argan oil, honey and grated almonds) - a chic substitute for peanut butter.
Go to a restaurant for lunch Al Fassia Aguedal (Route de l"Ourika, 9 bis), famous for dishes borrowed from the cuisine of Fez - hotpot, couscous and roasted pigeons - and prepared only by female chefs.
Before dinner, stop by the cafe Grand Cafe de la Poste, located in a former post office building. The house was built in 1925 on the corner of Boulevard el-Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik, the building was restored several years ago, and today guests of the cafe enjoy the taste of excellent Moroccan wine in the colonial splendor of the restored interiors.
Shopping in Marrakech
You will certainly get lost in the triangle of souks, but this is an essential part of the local shopping program. Start your journey by El Mouassine street, and then turn into all the winding alleys that branch off from it, and which are lined with stalls and stalls. The bazaars are roughly grouped by what they sell: babushi (leather mules), herbs, carpets, hardware, carved wooden jewelry, and so on. Souk des Teinturiers, which translated means “dyers’ bazaar,” is a paradise for hunters of colorful photographs. All bazaars are open until late at night, but during lunch it is quieter. Feeling tired from endless haggling, find a door with a number 142-144 at Bab Doukkala; there is a large store behind it Mustapha Blaoui. Here you can drink mint tea and wander through the shopping areas, which display lanterns, pottery, leather goods and the like.
Agadir
Agadir lies at the exit to the Atlantic Ocean of the Sousse Valley, descending from the Anti-Atlas Range, the slopes of which are dotted with palm trees, orange groves and argan trees. This small town is easy to navigate on foot, although the few "little taxis" (old Fiat Unos painted orange) are very cheap. A trip across the city will cost no more than 30 Dh.
For the most part, hotels and restaurants are concentrated along the five-kilometer pedestrian promenade along the ocean and two streets parallel to it - Boulevard 20 Août And Avenue Mohammed V. At the northern end of the beach, at the foot of the hill on which the words “Allah, King, Country” are carved, is a marina.
In the southern part lie vast lands belonging to the palace of King Mohammed, and the medina - the old city - in Bensergao area 230. It is more of a tourist attraction than a historical monument; The main attraction is the recreated medieval alleys and a number of souvenir shops. Open to the public every day from 9.00 to 18.00 pm, entrance 40 Dh.
How to get from Marrakech to Agadir
If you are traveling without a car, then the easiest way to get there is from Marrakech to Agadir by STM bus.
Traveling from Marrakech to Agadir by plane only possible with a transfer in Casablanca. In this case, it makes sense to take a ticket with parking for either no more than 1 hour, in order to reduce travel time as much as possible, or at least 5 hours - in this case, you will be able to go out into the city and walk a little. In the latter case from Casablanca airport to the city can be reached by train, bus or taxi in 30 minutes. Departure of trains from 8.00 to 21.35. Buses depart once an hour from 5.30 to 23.00.
Road from Agadir airport to the city takes about half an hour. Getting there is better by taxi, the cost of the trip is 200 Dh.
Where to live. Best hotels in Agadir
Fashionable hotels in Agadir have not yet emerged. But all the shortcomings of large coastal hotels are completely compensated by ocean views. A hotel is suitable for a luxurious holiday Royal Atlas with three bay-shaped pools and a wonderful spa. The hotel, located near the shore, has its own access to the beach. lti Agadir Beach Club. For those who want a more intimate setting, we recommend the hotel, decorated in the style of Berber art and furnished with wooden furniture.
Meal'n'Real. Sights of Agadir
Start exploring the city with Nouveau Talborjt, the center of the modern city, where it stands Mohammed V Mosque (Rue 29 February). The interior is closed to non-Muslims, but the view from the outside - the minaret, heavy wooden doors under a huge arch and the general features of obvious Moorish influence - is very impressive. Continue along the same street to the southeast, pass incongruously decorated fashion shops filled with colorful and eccentric clothing designs, and stop for a moment to sip mint tea in the mother-of-pearl dining room Yacout, located on the corner of Rue de I"Entraide. Here turn right onto Avenue du Prince Moulay Abdallah, go to the other side of the street and turn left at the second intersection, to Place al Amal.
Here is located Valley of the Birds - Vallee des Oiseaux (open daily from 11.00 to 18.00, free admission)- a narrow strip of the park in which exotic birds, mouflons and llamas live. Having passed through the Valley, you find yourself on Boulevard 20 Août, that is, practically to the beach and to the shiny yachts swaying at the pier. 
On the hillside overlooking the pier and fishing port, at an altitude of 236 meters, monumental ruins are firmly rooted in the ground 16th century fortress, Kasbah. The walls of the fortress - they call it here Agadir Oufella– visible from anywhere in the city; it was once home to more than 300 people, but now only the outer walls remain of the buildings. The all-round panorama opening from the fortress covers the city with its parks and mosques, the crescent-shaped bay, the ocean and the Anti-Atlas Range. 
Three floors of the museum Musée du Patrimoine Amazigh on Passage Ait Souss (open from 9.30 to 17.30 every day except Sunday) are filled with exhibits dedicated to the Berbers: there are coins, pots, daggers and handmade carpets, fine silver jewelry dating back to the 18th century. There is also a small library, an exhibition hall showing the stages of construction of traditional Berber stone and earth houses, and free tours. 
Perhaps it’s worth taking a look at the most beautiful city Jardin d'Olhao park, which was founded in honor of Agadir gaining its sister city of Olhão in Portugal. Gravel paths and wooden sidewalks meander through the tropical gardens and along the decorative Berber-style walls. The park is open every day from 8.00 to 18.30 pm, admission is free. Located in Jardin de Olhao a small museum with a single exhibition Mémoire d'Agadir (open every day from 9.30 to 18.00), dedicated to the aftermath of the devastating earthquake of February 29, 1960, which killed 15,000 people - a third of Agadir's population - and left thousands homeless. A small museum displays a collection of photographs of Agadir before and after the earthquake.
Cafes and restaurants in Agadir
Give in to temptation early in the morning and enjoy the bakery's selection of homemade cookies and cakes Tafarnout Patisserie (at the corner of Avenue Hassan II and Rue de la Foire) which opens every morning at 5 o'clock (open until 22.30 pm). The aroma of freshly baked bread and pastry spreads across the terrace, where you can enjoy an excellent omelet with fruit juice for breakfast. But don't forget to leave some room for cakes too.
Cluster of fish shops near the port– most of which feature signs painted by the owners depicting lobsters and sardines – are the place to stop for a bite to eat. Try a simple but tasty dish of seafood fried right before your eyes with salad and fresh bread.
Cafe del Mar In a hotel Royal Decameron Tafoukt Beach differs from other similar establishments on the embankment in much greater sophistication. As in the bar of the same name in Ibiza, the lounge is heard from the speakers, creating an atmosphere of complete relaxation, and the sofas and comfortable wicker chairs are perfect for enjoying cold Moroccan white wine at sunset. Grill restaurant Le Sesame (Rue des Orangers, 40) perched in the shade Loubnan mosque. Among local regulars, the juicy beef and chicken on a spit, cooked over coals, are especially popular.
As an alternative, we can recommend Rotisserie Nahda (Rue Moulay Youssef, 1) an unassuming establishment located away from the busy center, on an ordinary residential street in Nahda area. This is where men in white jalabs (traditional long cotton robes) bring their families for intimate dinners under the stars. Be sure to try the signature dish - lamb in a pot, served with onions, green olives, dates and a boiled egg. Alcohol is not served.
Shopping in Agadir
The labyrinths of the Marrakesh city market are unrivaled, but also Souk al-Had bazaar on Rue Chair al Hamra A lot of interesting things await you. At the market you can find almost anything your heart desires - from exotic tea sets and clay pots to natural soaps and essential oils. Local residents buy here everything they need in the household and fresh products: the reddest tomatoes, the most aromatic herbs and the sweetest dates; There is also no shortage of souvenirs and various handmade crafts. The bazaar is open from 8.00 to 20.00 every day except Monday.
Departure from the route. Travels to Imuzzer and Legzira
Agadir is considered to be a place exclusively for beach holidays, and in the pursuit of an even tan, many often forget that they can dilute their “seal” holiday with excellent excursion routes outside the city. There are many exceptionally beautiful places around Agadir, especially the secluded waterfalls, valleys and mountains in the north, in the area Imuzzer village, and in the south, in the vast Sousse Massa National Park. Established in 1991, the National Park is home to some 600 species, including the endangered northern bald ibise, which is best seen in October and November. 
To get to the National Park You can use the services of local tour operators or by taxi (a round trip will cost approximately € 50). Journey to an authentic village An imuzzer by taxi will cost €30. It's best to plan your trip on Thursday, when the village opens a local market where you can buy unique varieties of honey from thyme to cactus, and argan oil. 
If you have one or two days left that you are ready to spend on breathtaking Martian landscapes, be sure to visit Legziru. These are the most picturesque beaches in Morocco. The place is quite wild; the nearest settlement is Sidi Ifni, a provincial town left to the Moroccans as a legacy of Spanish rule. Therefore, it is worth carefully planning your route to the beach and back, not forgetting that you need to go there to enjoy the unearthly beauty of the places, and the best views, and therefore photographs, open to the traveler closer to sunset. Therefore, if it is possible to take Taxi(a full-day trip to the Sousse Massa National Park will cost € 150 per car with driver). By public transport(STM buses) from Agadir you can go to Tiznit or Sidi Ifni. Leave from Agadir to Tiznit It's best to take the bus leaving the city at 10.00. The optimal flight back to Agadir is at 20.30. Travel time in one direction is about 2 hours. The cost of the trip (round trip) is 70 Dh. Next, from Tiznit you will have to take a taxi and drive another hour to the beaches of Legzira. 
Buses from Agadir to Sidi Ifni and back only twice a day. Departure from Agadir at 16.00 and 21.15, travel time 3 hours 15 minutes. Departure from Sidi Ifni at 00.30 and 11.30. Cost of the trip (round trip 110 Dh). If you have little time, then you need to leave for Legzira along the route Agadir - Sidi Ifni - Agadir, you need to at 21.15, in advance booking a hotel in Sidi Ifni for an overnight stay. The next day, after breakfast, take a short walk around the deserted city and then take a taxi to Legzira. Just don’t forget to arrange in advance with the taxi driver to take you back and forth. And on the 00.30 flight return to Agadir. If you prefer to observe the treasures of nature at dawn, then you can safely leave back to Agadir at 11.30. Or ask the taxi driver to take you not to Sidi Ifni, but to the Berber village of Mirleft (about 20 minutes on the road), from where a flight to Agadir departs at 12.00 (ticket price 50 Dh). The choice, as always, is yours!
CHOOSE A HOTEL IN MOROCCO: COMPARE PRICES ON DIFFERENT SITES - SAVE UP TO 50%
- CHOOSE AND BOOK HOTELS IN MARRAKECH AND AGADIR
September 2009
To say that I have dreamed of going to Morocco all my life would be dishonest. Moreover, until recently, my ideas about this country were limited only to the film “Casablanca” and stickers on oranges. But all this was before I saw photographs of this amazing place and literally got excited about the idea of going there. Moreover, traveling not as part of an organized group, but, as always, as a “savage”.
Having extensive experience of independent travel to Europe, it was still exciting to go to the Arab world. But as it turned out, it’s not scary at all. Morocco is a much more civilized country than its eastern neighbors (Egypt, Turkey), and at the same time not so corrupted by mass tourism.
Since, in addition to Morocco, it was decided to visit France and Spain, the program for the stay in the Moroccan Kingdom itself looked like this:
Day 1: Flight Paris - Marrakech
Day 2-3: Trip to the Sahara: Marrakech - High Atlas - Ait Benhaddou - Ouarzazate - Zagora - Marrakesh
Day 4: Transfer to Essaouira
Day 5-6: Essaouira. Overnight transfer to Casablanca
Day 7: Flight Casablanca - Barcelona
The first day. Culture shock
My friend and I were flying to Marrakech from Paris. The French woman at the registration desk looked at our Russian passports for a long time and asked to see our return tickets, explaining that she needed to make sure that we would return. Schengen's concern for our return was unusual, but pleasant.Menara Airport is located 5 km from Marrakech. At noon our plane was the only one arriving. He stopped not far from the main building, and we walked briskly to passport control. Russians do not need a visa when entering the country, and they don’t even need to buy stamps to paste into their passports (as, for example, in Egypt). You just need to fill out the migration card (in the “Where” column you indicate the full address and name of the hotel where you will stay). The same migration card is filled out when leaving the country. By the way, all hotels ask for your migration card number upon check-in.
We changed money at the airport (the rate is the same everywhere - about 11 dirhams (Dh) for 1 euro). The next day we had to go to the desert, where you certainly won’t find money changers or ATMs. In addition, our trip took place during Ramadan, when all government institutions, including banks, close at 14:00. Leaving the airport building, we mentally prepared ourselves for an attack by taxi drivers with a 10-fold inflated fare (the real price to the city is 50 Dh). But they did not show any activity - Ramadan is after all, and strength must be conserved.
To the side stood the modern shuttle bus No. 19, which runs from the airport in a circle through the entire city. The driver spoke excellent English, gave everyone a map of the city, asked the name of the hotel and advised which stop was best to get off at. Because of this, the queue to enter was slow, but nevertheless, such an achievement of civilization was pleasing. The fare cost 20 Dh, the driver insistently advised us to immediately buy a round-trip ticket for 30 Dh and only left after we said that we would be flying from Casablanca. By the way, no one here calls it Casablanca - they simply call it Casa.
After 15 minutes we left. Our hotel was located almost at the end of the route (stop No. 11), so we got a bonus sightseeing tour of the city. We immediately realized that no one was in a hurry here. Along the way, the driver stopped to talk with the police, give other drivers a lift, etc. But it was still convenient and interesting. By the way, double-decker tourist buses with an open roof also run around Marrakech, although they are not particularly useful - the distances are short and it is much more pleasant to walk.
Many people in the reviews noticed that each city in Morocco has its own color. So the color of Marrakech is red, soft coral. It suits the city perfectly, where the temperature sometimes exceeds 45 degrees. The fortress walls surrounding the old city - Medina, administrative buildings and residential buildings - all of a soft coral color. The central streets and squares in Marrakech are decorated with national flags (red with a green star in the center), which give a sense of solemnity.
The extraordinary “movement” on the roads amazes. Cars, petit taxis (by the way, in each city they also have their own color; in Marrakech - yellow), grand taxis, mopeds, donkey and horse carts, bicycles. Absolutely everyone rides mopeds: men, women, children and even animals. I still have before my eyes the image of an Arab on a moped, carrying a goat on his lap. Traffic lights are found only in large areas (there are about four of them in total) and do not carry much of a load. At intersections, cars honk at everyone at once, dispersing unwary pedestrians and cyclists. Nobody allows pedestrians to pass. At first we were terribly afraid to cross the road, but then we got used to it and cheerfully crossed even with our suitcases. Looking at how the locals maneuvered among the dense traffic flow, we were amazed that they were still alive. However, speeds in the city are low, and drivers react quickly.
Our hotel was located in the new city of Gueliz and was called Toulousain. The impressions from the hotel were the most pleasant, and the cost of the room was simply ridiculous (230 Dh for a double with breakfast). The only thing that was confusing was the lack of air conditioning (but the temperature of +30 was tolerated completely normally). In addition, the hotel is located a bit far from the old town with the main attractions - about half an hour's walk. But on the other hand, this is even a plus. Having visited the Medina of Marrakech, I was sincerely glad that we did not settle there.
We unpacked our things and went for a walk. And then another circumstance became clear. Street names in Marrakech are not marked at all. Maps are practically useless, and the only landmarks are the squares and the 72-meter minaret of the Koutoubia Mosque. The Koutoubia is the main attraction of Marrakech and at the same time its tallest building; the rest of the houses should not be taller than a palm tree. The spire of the minaret is crowned with four golden balls of different sizes, placed one on top of the other. According to legend, they were cast from the jewelry of the Sultan's wife as punishment for breaking her fast during Ramadan by eating one grape. By the way, the minarets of other mosques also resemble Koutoubia, only smaller in size. Non-Muslims are strictly prohibited from entering.
Next to Koutoubia is the Royal Palace, from which only the fortress walls are visible. There are guards standing in front of the entrance, all in different costumes. You can't take pictures of them, but they look so funny that it's hard to resist. Not far from Koutoubia lies the main square of the old city - Place Jemaa El Fna, simply called La Place. It was to this square that local helpers tried to direct us all the time, of course, not for free. Noticed: as soon as you take out the card, the number of helpers around increases significantly. You can fight them in several ways:
1) Calmly answer “no, thank you.” As they wrote in one of the reviews, “do not get emotionally involved.” They fall behind on their own.
2) Don’t react at all, as if you don’t notice. Chat enthusiastically with your interlocutor, take photographs of sights. Helpers eventually become offended and fall behind.
3) We invented the most fun way. The fact is that every self-respecting helper knows phrases in different languages. The Russian language is clearly not their strong point, because there are only a few Russians traveling independently to Morocco. Many have never seen our compatriots even once in their lives. The helper, without waiting for an answer in English, begins to sort through all possible nationalities and languages. They called us all sorts of things: English, Spanish, French, even Japanese. But most often they called it “polonia” (they say that a couple of years ago they had an invasion of tourists from Poland, since then all people of Slavic appearance are Poles for them). When we eventually introduced ourselves as Russians and pretended that we no longer understood any language, the helpers left with nothing. Because they have absolutely nothing to say in Russian.
Near Jema El Fna Square there is an office of the Sahara Expedition company, where we booked a trip to the Sahara for two days (65 euros) in advance on the Internet. Women in jelabs sat in the office and worked on computers. One of them accepted the rest of the amount from us, showed us the route again and gave us instructions about tomorrow’s trip.
Next we went towards the markets (souks), deciding to find the Ben Youssef Medresa and the nearby Marrakech Museum (Mesee de Marrakech). After half an hour of wandering in an unclear direction through the shopping arcades, driven from behind by horse and donkey carts, we hired a “guide”. Having found a decent-looking guy who spoke fluent English, we asked to be taken to the museum for 10 Dh. On the way, he was joined by a friend, who then brazenly declared that he, too, was entitled to work, but was cynically dismissed. As I understand it, such work in pairs is normal in them. Attractions were closed. Because at 15:00 in Ramadan nothing was working anymore. But the walk through the Medina was still memorable.
On the square, an Arab accosted my friend, offering to take a photo with a monkey. When asked how much this pleasure would cost, we received the standard answer “how much will you give?” Never believe this - the price must be agreed upon in advance. A second Arab immediately ran up with the same monkey and also began to loom in front of the camera. And then, naturally, the two of them began to ask for a reward of 20 euros. Having received 20 Dh instead, they made such a grimace as if they were offended in the best of feelings.
In the evening we went to try local cuisine at a nearby restaurant. It was just 19:00 and I realized that we were in trouble. We were immediately warned that we would have to wait, as the hungry locals had started their “breakfast”. Precisely for breakfast, because the real lunch in Ramadan starts after 00:00. But we were no longer in a hurry, because no one here is in a hurry at all.
I read in one of the reviews that McDonald's in Morocco is the cheapest and safest way to eat. I don’t know about it being safe, but it’s certainly not cheap. Having entered this capitalist paradise out of curiosity, we saw hamburgers for 50 Dh. This was almost the full price of a set lunch at a traditional Moroccan restaurant.
Second day. Through the mountains to the east
At 7 am we were already standing at the travel agency office to set off on a two-day tour to the southeast through the Atlas Mountains - to where the Sahara Desert begins. We left our suitcases for free in the hotel storage room. Together with us are three Japanese and a Uruguayan couple. Looking ahead, I will say that this mini-trip turned out to be the most vivid and memorable of all Moroccan impressions. Marrakesh lies very close to the High Atlas Mountains, so after an hour's drive the road went up sharply, turning into a narrow serpentine. It was he who was the reason that we did not dare to rent a car for a trip to the Sahara. The mountain road is very narrow, oncoming cars have difficulty passing each other. The outer edge does not protect anything from the abyss at all. At the same time, the quality of the road surface is very good - the roads in Morocco were built by the French. And the cars themselves are old, but they are perfectly preserved in this climate.The mountain landscapes are stunning and varied. As you approach the highest point of Tizi N'tichka (2260 m), lush vegetation and coral-pink mountains give way to “lunar” landscapes. At this time of year there was a dry season, and all the oueds (drying up rivers) looked more like gorges. Driver periodically stopped with the words “photo" - this meant that we had arrived at the next observation deck. At each such platform there was a folding table on which fossils for sale were laid out - fossils (for some reason with an emphasis on the last syllable). Fossilized teeth, leaves in stones, “desert roses" and multi-colored stones. If you like something, it’s better to buy it there, because then they will stop you in special places where the price jumps three times and it’s impossible to beat it down.
At 12:00 we were taken to the most famous Kasbah, Ait Benhaddou, and let out for a walk. There was catastrophically little time - about half an hour. Therefore, we ran along it rather than walked. Kasbahs are desert fortresses, built of clay and straw and surrounded by villages called qsars. These incredible structures are the pride of Morocco. They attract thousands of tourists and, oddly enough, film directors. A number of Hollywood films were filmed in Ait Benhaddou - “The Pearl of the Nile”, “The Mummy”, “Gladiator”, etc.
In order to get to the ksar, you need to cross the river. At the best of times it floods and you need to cross on stones laid out across it. And local children earn extra money by helping you walk, holding your hand. Now the river ended 20 meters after the “crossing” and the business was clearly unprofitable.
The Kasbah is very unusual, and I would definitely stay there for half a day to see everything. But we had a tight schedule so that we could ride camels at sunset, and not in complete darkness.
After visiting the Kasbah, we were taken for lunch to Ouarzazate, a local cinema center, where there is still no cinema, but almost every resident has managed to star in a movie extra. Episodes for 182 films have already been shot at three local film studios. All our fears that we, like the locals, would go hungry until 19:00 during Ramadan did not come true. The tourist restaurant was located on the square right next to the cinematography museum. I really wanted to go there, entrance cost only 30 Dh, but I also had to be in time for lunch. In total we were given an hour and a half. We decided to quickly eat and then go to the museum. But it didn’t work out quickly. The fact is that all the tourists along this route were taken to this restaurant, and we waited at least 50 minutes for lunch. As a result, visiting the museum was left for next time.
Next, the path lay through the Draa Valley, which is otherwise called the “Valley of a Thousand Kasbahs.” As I understand it, the only river flows there that does not dry up in the summer, and therefore this area is marked by luxurious palm groves, and dates are grown there.
By 18:00 we reached Zagora, from where the first sand dunes begin. The last civilized point before the desert consisted of a small hotel and a couple of trading shops. They took us to one of them and told us that everyone just needed to buy water and a scarf for their heads. Everyone had water, but there were difficulties with hats. Well, of course, they were ready to sell us handkerchiefs and even professionally wrap them around our heads. This pleasure cost 50-80 Dh. I had a checkered arafatka, brought from a motorcycle safari in Egypt. The sellers, along with the driver, began to actively convince me that it would not fit. Something like this dialogue ensued between us:
- This is the wrong arafatka, it won’t fit here.
- Why won’t it work?
- She's too small.
- The desert is the same everywhere. It was suitable in Egypt.
- Well, show me how to tie it.
With a practiced movement, I wrapped the arafat around my head, after which they respectfully left behind. We were taken to the camel camp. Everyone was put on camels, and we rode off, really admiring the sunset.
I imagined riding a camel like this: you sit on the top and sway proudly, contemplating the beauty of the desert. In reality, everything turned out to be wrong. A camel is a very tough animal and even thick saddles cannot help. And he doesn’t float through the desert, but seems to jump across it, moving in jerks. And you, accordingly, jump on his hump all the way to the beat. Everyone appreciated it. But the fun began when the sun went down. Because our guides started having “breakfast”. Throwing away the reins, they sat in a circle on the ground and began to eat greedily. Our camels, not paying attention, began to move further behind the leader. We screamed helplessly because the desert ships refused to understand our language. Only after this did one of the guides get distracted and stop our caravan.
Having read that a camel will definitely spit if you stand exactly in front of it, we squealed hysterically every time the camel turned its head towards us, while chewing something. We walked the rest of the way in complete darkness. At some point, three more caravans joined us from around the corner and we all walked together. Two hours later, we arrived at the camp. The concept of a camp was that there were four or five tents on its territory and nothing else was visible. The bivouac tent was designed for our entire group, but in general it could accommodate about 15 people. There was a burner hanging in the center, there were two tables, and mattresses were laid out along the edges. These are the Spartan conditions.
We were fed and then invited to an impromptu concert on top of one of the dunes. Indeed, five Berbers sat down on a dune and began to play, sing and dance. Gradually, the inhabitants of the bivouacs gathered there. And within half an hour everyone was dancing together to Berber tunes.
At night we woke up because it was raining. In a desert! Into the drought! And it dripped loudly on the roof.
Day three. Back to Marrakech
The morning desert did not give the impression of a desert: wet sand, small dunes. Next to one of them lay wet camels and were clearly not happy about being disturbed. By the way, a three-day excursion (for 100 euros) takes you to Merzouga - there is a real desert and real dunes up to 150 meters high.After breakfast we climbed onto the camels and rode back. Riding a camel for an hour and a half was no longer so tough, apparently we got used to it.
The rest of the day was supposed to take the same road back to Marrakesh. Somewhere near a town with the strange name Agdz, a surprise awaited us - a huge traffic jam. It turned out that there was an accident involving two cars, a regular bus and a truck. As a result of the collision, the bus spun and blocked the only two lanes of traffic, blocking traffic from both directions at once. No one was going to turn it around, because everyone was more interested in the fate of the truck. He was less fortunate. The overturned truck lay in a ditch, its cab completely crushed.
We drove around the traffic jam through the rocky desert - hamada. We returned to Marrakesh around 19:00. We immediately went to the bus station to buy tickets for the morning bus to Essaouira. The bus station is located near the hotel (about 15 minutes on foot), next to the fortress walls and the Bab Doukkala gate. As soon as we entered the station building, local ticket sellers attacked us. There are two decent bus companies in Morocco - CTM and Supratours, but there are also a bunch of small local carriers. The sellers were not far behind. After my answer that only CTM was needed, they began shouting that they were CTM. And they didn’t let up until we independently reached the desired cash register. At the box office there was a salesman who looked like Will Smith (as far as I later understood, half of their population looks like Will Smith), from whom we bought tickets for 12:30 for 80 Dh.
Around 22:00 we went to the main square to watch the amazing performance that takes place there every night. Huge rows of oranges, stalls with stews, and groups of people with similar interests. In one circle they conjure snakes, in another they play Gnaoui music and immediately dance to it, in the third they try to catch bottles of water with a fishing rod, etc. In between all this, fortune tellers and tattoo artists walk around. Music is playing and the aromas of food and spices are in the air.
Day four. Hello Atlantic!
After the morning breakfast, we managed to complete the maximum program by visiting the Majorelle Garden. This is the only place that stands out from the red splendor of Marrakech. The colors of greenery and blue sky predominate here. The small space of the garden is densely planted with exotic plants: cacti, palm trees, yuccas, bamboo, and there is a pond with water lilies spreading an intoxicating aroma. In the garden there is a house of unrealistically blue color, which at one time belonged to Yves Saint Laurent. Entrance to the garden is 30 Dh, taxi fare around the city is 10 Dh. It is better to visit the garden in the morning, immediately after opening, because then there are still no crowds of tourists in it, and you can enjoy all the beauty of this place.Returning to the hotel, we packed our things and headed to the station. Half an hour before the bus arrived, you had to go to the CTM ticket office and buy a luggage pass. They charged us 5 Dh for both suitcases, with the corresponding tags attached to them. Our bus arrived - and I was surprised. It was a standard Eurolines bus, a whole bunch of which travel around Europe. The bus left on time, after which it went to the second station in Marrakech, where it stood for another half hour. The fact is that CTM in Marrakech has its own station and you can take the bus right there so as not to waste time. Officially, the road between the cities takes only 3 hours, but somewhere in the middle of the journey the bus stopped and let everyone out for a walk for about 40 minutes, as a result of which we arrived in Essaouira only at the beginning of five.
Essaouira is located on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean. That is why blue and windy tones predominate in this city. White houses with blue-painted shutters, white and blue sidewalks, blue taxis and fishing boats. This is a port city and a former Portuguese fortress. A city of seagulls and cats fed on port fish. A city of artists, surfers and hippies. A city where you can lie down in the sand dunes on the shore, admire the Atlantic and the most fantastic sunset.
In Essaouira we stayed in the Medina in a cozy riad Dar Al Bahar on the ocean. The taxi driver took us to the central square for 10 Dh and then instructed us to walk, because it is impossible to get into Medina by car. By the way, porters with wheelbarrows run all over the Medina and help tourists deliver their suitcases to the hotel.
There was a smell of freedom in Essaouira. There were more tourists here. Nobody wore dzhelyabs. More and more people were seen wearing shorts and short T-shirts. It was hot here, and the wind from the Atlantic worked better than any fan.
Navigating the Medina of Essaouira was much easier. First of all, it's small. In half an hour you can walk from one end of the old city to the other. And Medina itself is very nice. Here you want to go into shops, look at strange things and bargain for mint tea. No one pesters you or tries to direct you where you don’t want to go.
Next to the hotel is the Bastion Kasbah (Skala de la Kasbah), overhanging the ocean. In the evening, tourists and locals come here to admire the sunset. And sit among the guns pointed towards the ocean.
The first Essaouir types began to appear here. The fact is that there are no helpers here (as, for example, in Marrakesh), there are “acquaintances” here. They have a mainly commercial interest in you: take you to their shop and sell something, or take you to a familiar cafe to get a kickback from it. We have identified three such types:
1) “I come from the desert.” Distinctive features: despite the fact that everyone around is in shorts and T-shirts, he is dressed in a long white or blue dzhelyaba with a shawl on his head. Legend: I grew up in the desert, drove caravans since childhood, visited Merzouga and Zagora, and collected a whole bunch of silver Berber jewelry there. Let's go to my shop, I'll show you.
2) "Musician". Distinctive features: dreadlocks on the head, bright, loose hippie-style clothes. Legend: I play reggae or gnaoua music, I have my own band. Let me take you to the underground club where we gather to play.
3) "Surfer". Distinctive features: tanned macho in a tight wetsuit. Legend: winner of all possible championships, traveled all over Europe. Let's go to the restaurant.
I understand that you have to trust people, but when you meet the same types with the same stories, you involuntarily begin to think.
Day five. Finally on the beach
In the morning we went to the port to climb the picturesque Port Bastion (Skala du Port) and admire the views of the city and islands. Entrance to the bastion, like most museums in Morocco, cost 10 Dh.And then - to the beach. There is a high tide in Essaouira. In the evening, the ocean reaches the very fences on the embankment, from which local children jump into the water. And in the morning there is a sandy bottom at this place. The city beach begins right at the gates of the Medina. It was possible to lie down there, but in the distance we could see picturesque sand dunes, and we moved towards them.
The hike to the dunes took about an hour, at the end of the path we had to cross a shallow oued with a nasty rocky bottom, flowing into the ocean. At the very end of the beach, right in front of the oued, entertainment for tourists began - camel riding, ATVs, and horses. We lay down in the dunes on the shore. From time to time, lines of camels strolled past, and policemen on horseback rode by a couple of times. But overall it was very calm, clean and pleasant. The water in the ocean was warm and there was no strong wind. In general, all the joys of life.
In the evening we went to look for the bus station. There are two of them in the city: one is located near the city wall and only Surpatours buses go there; all other buses arrive at another station, which is further away. It was decided to leave tomorrow by night bus to Casablanca at 23:59 (for 150 Dh), so that there would be an opportunity to walk around Essaouira for another day. I really liked the city.
Day six. Surfer's paradise
Having left our things at the hotel reception in the morning, we again went to the remote beach. There was a strong wind that day. As proof of this, a lot of surfers immediately appeared on the ocean, who also complained “the wind is weak, it’s inconvenient to swim.” But for me the wind was too strong. After half an hour of lying on the beach, half of my towel was covered, and an impressive pile of sand formed next to it. We decided that if this continues, we will be completely buried. We spent the whole day walking around the Medina, visiting souvenir shops and buying all sorts of trinkets.We found a market for locals, which was more reminiscent of St. Petersburg apraska, both in appearance and in content. The same Chinese T-shirts, kitchen utensils, Abibas pants, etc. It’s as if they never left Russia. They also sold amazing dates (about 8 varieties) for 20-30 Dh per kg. And absolutely amazing sweets for 20-25 Dh per kg. We bought sweets for the trip and already in Russia we regretted that we took so little. They are amazing: they resemble cookies, heavily soaked in honey and sprinkled with sesame seeds. Juicy, sweet, finger licking good.
We spent a couple of hours at the hotel chatting with the owners. They turned out to be a very nice and hospitable French-Dutch couple. Then we went to the station. The bus was half empty; several other locals and three Italians were traveling with us. The indicated travel time is 6 hours. We relaxed and prepared to be at least an hour late.
I hardly slept on the way. I couldn’t because I was looking at the stars. For the first time I saw such a low sky with huge sparkling stars.
Day seven. The White house
Casablanca, the financial capital of Morocco, in real life has nothing in common with the Hollywood film of the same name. The name of the city translates as “white house”. The city, indeed, is entirely built of white stone. In Casablanca, right on the ocean, stands the Hassan II Mosque, the second largest after the mosque in Mecca. There are no more attractions. But the mosque itself is stunning, and the experience alone is worth the trip.Contrary to expectations, our bus arrived at 04:30, an hour and a half earlier than expected. At the local train station, I first saw special rooms for prayers and a miracle of human thought - a public toilet a la a hole in the floor. By the way, our luggage was not given to us so easily. He was collected on a special trolley, taken to the station to the baggage claim point, and only there they began to issue tickets. We explained that we wanted to leave our suitcases for three hours and only then pick them up (because there are no luggage storage facilities at the station). We were allowed. So, we are completely free at five in the morning in Casablanca. What to do next?
Our plane leaves at 13:30. The best way to get to the airport is by train. We went to look for the railway station, according to the map it was not far. A woman passing by helped me get my bearings. She walked right into the middle of the roadway and began showing exactly where to go. I thank her very much, but it was clearly not worth risking my life like that. The Casa Port railway station turned out to be small and nondescript. Trains to the airport run every hour from 06:30 (1 hour 10 minutes journey), and a ticket must be purchased for a specific time. In general, we decided to aim for 08:30 and use our free time to go see the Hassan II Mosque. The mosque turned out to be quite a distance from the station; a taxi driver (taxis in Casablanca are white or red) took us for 20 Dh.
We walked back to the station, since we still had a whole hour to spare. Around the mosque there are some vacant lots and unfinished buildings. Apparently, there was only enough money for a mosque. There was nothing interesting along the way: the white wall of Medina, the port, naval institutions. We were once again glad that we chose one day in Essaouira over a stay in Casablanca. Having collected our suitcases, we returned to the railway station and bought a ticket to the Aeroport MedV station at 08:30 for 40 Dh. Upon exiting the platform, a ticket inspector stood and checked the tickets. He suggested that we need to change at the Ain Sebaa station (either the next stop, or the next one). The train arrived at the lower level of the airport; to go upstairs, all the luggage had to be checked. Because of this, a large queue formed at the exit. I was amused by the signs: do not carry weapons or explosives. Apparently, this is the main thing here. Because later, during the inspection of hand luggage, they didn’t even take away our water. And then the last surprise awaited us. Our flight to Barcelona was not on the flight schedule. A representative from Jet4You said that our flight was canceled and we were the only ones they could not reach. But judging by the number of people at their counter, we were by no means the only ones. They could only offer seats on a plane that would fly the day after tomorrow. But you can't get rid of us that easily. After much investigation, they were ready to send us anywhere, just out of sight. As a result, we negotiated a flight to Madrid with our sister airline Royal Air Maroc. And our adventures in Spain are a completely different story...
And finally, I would like to debunk several misconceptions about Morocco that I came across while preparing for the trip:
1) Traders and taxi drivers do not give change. Not true. Even when, after a long bargaining and telling us that 25 Dh was our last money, we gave the seller a hundred, he dutifully counted out the change.
2) There are no Euro sockets in hotels, but only French ones with a voltage of 110 Volts. Not true. After reading such reviews, I almost seriously bought a step-up adapter in Russia weighing at least 0.5 kg. In normal hotels (even 2-3*) everything is fine with sockets.
3) If you don’t know Arabic or French, you have nothing to do in Morocco, because no one will understand you. Complete nonsense. When Arabs need it, they will talk to you in any language you understand. Many people partially understand English, and even more locals speak excellent Spanish. To make your life easier, you only need to learn a few expressions in French. Fish, meat, vegetables, tea, water, soup, juice - for the restaurant. Numerals (tens, hundreds), the question “How much does it cost?” - for shops and taxis. The question "Where is it located?" - for walks. That's all!
4) Unsanitary conditions. Again, after reading the reviews, I took with me a bunch of disposable tableware, cups, forks, spoons, and sanitary napkins. But the surroundings were clean and in the restaurants food was served on clean dishes. And in general, Moroccan cities are no dirtier than in Russia. The same applies to stories about numerous poisonings. It seems to me that this is solely a matter of the body’s individual reaction to unfamiliar food. During all the days we were in Morocco, we never got food poisoning, although we only ate local cuisine (including sweets from the market and raw salads) and drank freshly squeezed juice.
5) Small souvenirs (pens, keychains, calendars) can replace payment. Nevermind. The only thing better than money is money. Helpers will never appreciate your magnets and postcards with views of your hometown. Even children in the desert, accepting candy, also ask for euros in addition. The only thing they can appreciate is lighters, even the simplest ones. Tested by personal experience.
Nadyae
20/01/2010 01:41
The opinions of tourists may not coincide with the opinions of the editors.
Royal Air Maroc planes regularly fly from Moscow to Morocco. Departures operate from Sheremetyevo International Airport three times a week. The flight takes approximately six hours.Air France flights with a traditional connection in Paris are very popular. This company operates regular daily flights to Marrakech, Rabat and Casablanca. Connections between flights rarely take more than three hours. You can also fly with Alitalia planes with a transfer in Rome. Many other European airlines operate regular flights to Morocco with connections in other cities.
The most affordable options are provided by Ryanair. It can be used to reach Marrakech, Fez, Agadir and other Moroccan cities from places such as Valencia, Seville, London, Marseille, Paris and Dublin. These cities can be reached in a variety of ways, including using low-cost Eastern European airlines. If you buy tickets in advance, you can spend two hundred and fifty dollars per person for round-trip tickets.
If you are planning a tour of Africa, it is worth considering that despite the geographical proximity of Morocco to many popular African countries, the lack of reasonable competition on routes between the countries of West Africa and Morocco leads to the fact that air tickets can cost a lot - up to seven to eight hundred dollars . Flights from Britain, Spain, and France are several times cheaper.
On water
There are regular high-speed and car ferries from Europe to Africa. These ferries mainly operate between Spanish and Moroccan cities. The most frequent ferries run from Algeciras to Tangier, with at least eight to ten departures per day. The cost of a one-way ticket is about thirty euros. From Malaga you can get to Melilla or Nador for about forty euros, the ferry runs up to eight times a day. Usually, if you buy a round trip ticket, you can get a twenty percent discount.There are regular sea connections between Spain and its enclaves Melilla and Ceuta, from where you can get to Morocco by car or on foot. The exact details can be found on the websites of ferry companies. It is worth considering that there are serious border controls between Morocco and the enclaves. To travel to Morocco you must have a double-entry Spanish visa.
It should be noted that the presence of this visa is checked when issuing ferry tickets in Spanish ports. If a tourist does not have a visa that gives the right to return to Spain, it will not be possible to buy a return ticket.
We have all tried Moroccan tangerines, but, alas, not everyone was lucky enough to visit this interesting country with a rich history. Once upon a time its territory was much larger. Today it is home to other modern states, such as Libya, Algeria, Tunisia, part of Portuguese and Spanish territory.
What to expect as an independent traveler?
Let's figure it out. Let's start with a small selection of feature articles.
Season by month
Morocco, on the one hand, is washed by the Mediterranean Sea, and on the other, by the Atlantic Ocean, so the climate throughout the country is very diverse.
In winter, on the Mediterranean coast, the average air temperature is +10 C° - +13 C°. And from the Atlantic Ocean it is no higher than + 5 C°. Ideal time for sightseeing.
In spring, the tourist season begins in the country. This time is also great for excursions, as the daytime becomes warmer, the average temperature is +20 C° - +23 C°, however, the nights are still cold and the temperature drops to +10 C°. And the water warms up to +17 C°.
Planning a trip? That way!We have prepared some useful gifts for you. They will help you save money while preparing for your trip.
Summer is an excellent time for beach activities, as the temperature does not drop below +24 C° - + 32 C°, sometimes rising to +37 C°. The water warms up to +24 C°.
If you do get an infection, drink only bottled water from the supermarket.
If you are suddenly invited to visit for a cup of tea in Morocco, it is considered bad manners to refuse. You can refuse the offered tea after the third cup. And one more thing, do not blow on hot tea, as this could offend your new friend. The aroma of tea should be inhaled and enjoyed.
If you are invited to eat, then be prepared for the fact that in the country it is customary to eat with your hands from one cup. And don’t go too heavy on bread, as it is considered a luxury.
To avoid getting sunburned under the bright sun, be sure to take sunscreen with you, and just in case some part of your body gets very tan, a tube of panthenol.
And one more thing, if you dine in a restaurant, about 15% will be added to your bill..
Are you afraid of being left without communication on the road?
My desire to go to Morocco did not arise momentarily, rather it was an old dream...
There were several reasons for the trip. First of all, a love for oriental exoticism, but not the kind offered by Turkey, Egypt or the Emirates, which from my point of view are tourist conveyors. We are talking about a real oriental flavor, with immersion in a completely different atmosphere and time frame, because Morocco is a country where you can fully see the rhythm of modern life and “times long past” - a way of life that has remained unchanged for many centuries . In general, many things are different in Morocco, you need to be psychologically prepared for this!
The second reason is a passion for new impressions and sensations, interest in the history, culture, traditions and customs of different countries.
And finally, the opportunity to combine an excursion program with a beach holiday. In this sense, the country provides an excellent opportunity - to travel around the imperial cities (Casablanca, Rabat, Fez, Marrakech, Tangier, Ifrane), and then swim in the ocean or go surfing in Agadir - on the Atlantic coast.
The trip to Morocco was organized by me independently, although there are many options for visiting this magical country on the Russian tourist market. I looked through almost all the offers, but since this is not my first independent trip to Arab countries, I ultimately decided to travel independently. Moreover, my Moroccan university classmate offered me help in terms of consultations on moving within the country (special thanks to him for this!). I met groups of tourists from Russia in Fez and Marrakech - I didn’t hear any complaints about the organization of the trip, everyone really liked everything, so I recommend using the services of travel agencies for those who like an organized vacation in the “look right / look left” style; the bus leaves in 15 minutes.” Of course, there are downsides to organizing a trip on your own: it’s very easy to get lost (especially in the Medinas), a serious language barrier (Morocco is a former French colony, English is unpopular here), and all these trips between cities by train, bus, car at personal responsibility are quite tiresome. Perhaps for some these disadvantages will be critical.
Since my trip involved active movement around the country, I stayed in different hotels. I liked some more, some less. In Casablanca I lived in PRINCE DE PARIS 4*. In general, the hotel is not bad - modern, the location is good - in the very center, and therefore it is quite noisy here. Most of the rooms overlook a busy road, where Moroccan youth are bawling and driving cars all night. But since I didn’t come to Morocco to sleep, I perceived this noise positively - I quickly left my things and went to get acquainted with Casablanca at night.
In Fez there was ZALAGH PARK PALACE 5*, and in Marrakech ZALAGH KASBAH HOTEL & SPA 4*. The hotels turned out to be very good, and in Marrakesh the 4-star hotel is no worse than the one in Fez. Both are very colorful, with an abundance of national interior items in the halls and on the floors. The rooms themselves are modern, comfortable, surprisingly clean and all the furniture is new. In general, there were no questions or displeasures regarding the stay. By the way, in Marrakech, the hotel provides a free shuttle to Jem el Fna Square, the hallmark of Marrakech. And finally, a very decent hotel was waiting for me on the Atlantic coast, in Agadir - ROYAL ATLAS 5 *. The hotel is excellent - I didn’t have any negative feelings at all. Four days of staying at this hotel flew by like one - comfortable rooms, beautiful grounds, good service, food, magical views of the ocean, the beach is close (only 200 meters) - rating 5, no doubt. Not far from Agadir there is also a surf camp called Surftown Morocco - everything is simple there, but people don’t go there to stay in hotels.
If we talk about the impressions of the trip, then there are simply not enough words in the vocabulary - only admiring exclamations! These are days of happiness, joy, recognition of the unfamiliar and comprehension of the alien and distant. In general, everyone imagines an ideal trip differently, depending on their goals and expectations. In my case, this particular trip was ideal!
MOROCCO! WHAT IS IMPOSSIBLE TO FORGET AND WHAT IS WORTH GOING THERE FOR:
Strait of Gibraltar. 8 km - and you are in Spain!
MARRAKESH!
Djemm el Fna Square in Marrakech - I will dream about it: all these spell casters, fortune tellers, storytellers... this is not the case in other countries. It’s not for nothing that this square is protected by the UNESCO program!
Moroccans are friendly, quite nice people, 50% cannot read or write at all, but the second 50% know several languages!
Nightlife of Casablanca.
Medinas in imperial cities (Rabat, Fes, Marrakech, Meknes).
Ifrane is an alpine village in Africa. Such an unusual feeling, as if you were somewhere in Chamonix.
Wild monkeys in the cedar forests of the Atlas Mountains.
Riads (national mini-hotels).
Colored cities in Morocco - they really are all different colors - red, white, blue.
Souq (markets in Fez, Marrakech - they are more than 500 years old). You can buy everything here!!! And handmade too! And these narrow streets in Fez... I couldn’t find a way out for more than two hours, because there are more than 10 thousand streets there! Even the natives don't know them all. Fez, in general, impresses with its medievalism - it’s like you’ve traveled back in time in a time machine.
Tanners' quarters in Fez and Marrakech. There really is a terrible stench here! (The leather is first soaked in some kind of lime, then in pigeon droppings - the smell is worse than in my grandmother’s farmyard in the village. The work of a tanner is simply hellish!!!)
Atlantic Ocean. Swimming in the fog, which descends in Agadir for only one hour.
Goats on an argan tree. They really stand on the branches! Like some kind of crows! I tried to take pictures - they jumped off right away! Tricky ones!
A combination of luxury and poverty (begging is not held in high esteem in the country - everyone is trying to earn a penny), for the most part people here live very modestly, but respectable areas in large cities are real palaces!
The variety and beauty of the landscapes include vineyards, orange and oil groves, rocky heaths, and terracotta slopes near Marrakech. Mountain landscapes - from rocky to lush green, red poppies along the highway (a phenomenon that has long disappeared in Russia), wonderful lakes in the mountains. By the way, the roads here are excellent!
Dinner at a national Moroccan restaurant in Marrakech;
The dancing and singing of the Berbers (indigenous inhabitants of Morocco), as well as their adobe villages, is something!
Sultan's Palace in Marrakech.
Majorelle Garden in Marrakech. This is an amazing place - harmony and beauty, privacy and silence. It belonged to the artist Majorelle, then the garden was owned by Yves Saint Laurent, who, at his request, was buried in the garden in a place unknown to anyone.
Surfing beach in the village of Taghazout (20 km from Agadir) - an international gathering of surfers from all over the world! A huge number of languages in one place! They say it’s even cooler near Essaouira.
Delicious Moroccan dishes... Tajine is a clay pot in which everything simmers for a long time with various spices. It comes with vegetables, lamb, and couscous. Baked pigeon with nuts in almond-sugar topping. Sweets: marshmallows, baklava, cookies, cakes, Moroccan mint tea. Mmm - yummy...
ORANGES! In May - the harvest, I picked oranges in the orange grove, ate right there, rested under the trees - it’s just a dream!
Morning runs along the ocean - fresh, cool wind and a wide 14-kilometer beach area.
Grandmothers (funny slippers, so Moroccan) - everyone wears them! Beautiful and comfortable... I bought them for my family and everyone is delighted.
In fact, the list can be continued for a long time, because in my case this is only a small fraction of the impressions that were brought home!!! And surely everyone will have their own, individual list, just like the magical country of Morocco!
