I was sitting on the balcony of a hotel room in the village of Vashisht, a couple of kilometers from the famous Himalayan resort of Manali. Below the river Bias carried its clear waters. I was surrounded by mountains on all sides, close by green forests, in the distance with snow caps. The landscape is mesmerizing and inspiring. I admired it and wrote notes in my diary. And what did I write? Maybe he was singing the praises of the landscapes around me? Not at all. I sang of other places:
"…My heart is crying. Cries big crystal transparent tears. It wants back. It wants to return to a place where the number of its fading with delight is greater than anywhere else in the world.
And what reason does he need? Yes, yes, it is also very beautiful here. The mountains are wonderful, the air is so drinkable, the birds are also singing enthusiastically. And here there is no altitude sickness, cold at night and in the morning, scorching sun during the day, interruptions in electricity and hot water. And there is also roaming, Internet, television, hashish (someone needs that), shops with any goods, a great variety of restaurants with excellent cuisine and even a sorority (again, if someone needs it)…
All this is true. But the heart does not recognize these arguments. It wants to go to Spiti Valley, the place where life began (this is what the inscription says on my T-shirt, bought in the capital of the valley - Kaze). And it started right there, I have no doubt about it. It simply couldn’t have started anywhere else...
The beauty of these mountains is not just unreal, it is surreal. How many times did I tell myself during the days spent in the Spiti Valley: “No, it simply cannot be so beautiful. This is impossible…"
View from Dhankar gompa
Peaks approaching the stars, transparency in the air, heavenly blue and white clouds, which it seems you can touch with your hand, and the quiet calm majesty of the river and valley. And something else that defies description. Here, this is where humanity was born. It was in this place that man first realized himself as an individual; here, looking at such nearby stars, he first thought about why he came to this world.
Another India.
Before Spiti Valley there was another India. Various. All kinds. With all its beauties and contrasts.
The first word we heard from Indians in Delhi (read - My rating of places to visit in Delhi) when we arrived at the iconic Main Bazaar street in the Pahar Ganj district was the word “hashish”... True, we ended up in this place at three o'clock in the morning. According to the logic of local dark personalities, what else can white people do on the street at this time other than look for drugs? This is India.
We didn’t stay long at the Main Bazaar. We paid for the rented minibus - and off we went to the mountains! At a gas station I approach the driver and his assistant. I ask: “What’s your name?” They burst into flames with joy. Commander Sahib wants to know their names! Adults, but at the same time, children. Children who live with their hearts. This country, like Russia, cannot be understood with the mind. This is India .
We stopped on the way to Pinjora Gardens. A small nice park where the Mughal emperors came to take a break from the summer heat. Two blondes from our group, who had not yet fully realized what clothes they could wear in India and what they could not, created a sensation among the male visitors of the park. I didn’t even know that the head on the neck could rotate as much as some Indians. This is India .
Friends, I am pleased to invite you to the next, third photo expedition to Indian Tibet. The route begins in the city of Dharamsala - the residence of the Dalai Lama, the center of Tibetan Buddhism, then we will travel through the northern part of the state to the Kullu Valley, visit the Roerichs' house in Nagar, stop in Manali and through two passes we will reach the Spiti Valley - the main goal of our trip. Here we will spend about a week getting acquainted with the life of high mountain monasteries and villages. We will visit one of the most ancient Buddhist monasteries in Tabo. We will drive through the entire valley and through Sangla we will return to the starting point of our journey.
Waiting for us:
Immersion in the culture of Indian Tibet.
Acquaintance and immersion in the traditions of Tibetan Buddhism.
Unique, hard-to-reach high mountain villages and monasteries.
Ancient Buddhist monasteries. The oldest is more than 1000 years old.
Communication with monks and local residents who profess Buddhism.
Kora around the palace of the Dalai Lama.
Opportunity to get acquainted with the practice of meditation.
The opportunity to get a consultation, and, if desired, undergo a course of treatment, from the best doctors of Tibetan medicine.
Roerich's house, where he spent the last years of his life. The originals of his paintings hang in the house.
Photography as a way of knowing and interacting with the outside world.
The program will be interesting for a variety of groups of people:
Photographers and amateur photographers.
For those who want to shoot their own photo project. The topic can be discussed during correspondence. There will be such an opportunity during the expedition.
Anyone interested in Buddhism.
For lovers of Roerich's work.
For those who are interested in Tibetan medicine.
For those who love India.
For those who are not indifferent to the mountains.
Those who strive for harmony, development and self-improvement are looking for answers to eternal life questions.
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Photo expedition travel program by day
July 25 - moving to Nagar. Kullu Valley. Here is the house where Nicholas Roerich lived with his family.
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July 30 - Ki Monastery, high mountain villages. Monastery in Kaza. The program is structured in such a way that everyone has the time and opportunity to take full-fledged photographic material about the chosen place.
August 5 - rest, filming in McLeoganj, Tibetan medicine clinic. This day is also a reserve day in case of unforeseen delays on the route.
Peculiarities
We are talking about an expedition through the mountainous region of India. We try to provide the necessary level of comfort (we stay in hotels, we do not have tents, we travel in comfortable cars, we have good drivers and guides) and travel according to the stated program, but you must understand that any changes and force majeure are possible. And the hotels are of a slightly lower level than in our standard photo tours.
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The route runs through mountains and passes, the maximum height of which is about 4500m. Part of the route passes on bad roads.
This is a photo expedition. Therefore, we will be filming a lot. Actually, the program itself was created primarily for photographers, so that everyone could bring good material. However, issues of training and consulting are of a private nature. We will always discuss and analyze everything, I will provide any necessary assistance, but there are no daily classes and collective analysis of the footage in this program, simply because, in my experience, there is not enough time left for this. There are separate photo programs for this.
The cost of the program for 1 person is $1950. Reservations are made with a 25% prepayment. In case of cancellation of the trip, the prepayment is unfortunately not refundable.
Price includes:
Meeting and seeing off at the airport.
Accommodation for the entire program in double rooms.
Transport throughout the program. Comfortable Toyota Innova cars on the main route. Comfortable accommodation for 3 people per car.
Drivers and guides.
Permits, entrance tickets to nature reserves, museums.
Photo program.
The price does not include:
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Transport to Dharamsala.
Souvenirs and personal expenses.
Visa to India.
Medical insurance.
We will help you with purchasing tickets to Dharamsala from your city, obtaining a visa and insurance.
You can find out more by phone: +7 499 343-07-12 or by writing to me by email: [email protected]. Viber works on the number: +7 901 744-01-78.
You can also get acquainted with the program of the previous expedition, which was successfully completed in 2017:
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Why is it worth going on a photo tour with us?
Only really interesting routes. We don’t have many photo tours - there are 4-6 programs a year, there is no desire to do as much as possible, but all the programs are truly loved and very interesting. These are just the places you want to go to yourself. And not just go, but come back time after time.
We are not a group of tourists, but a company of friends, like-minded people. And indeed it is. In addition to the fact that the groups are small, usually no more than 5-6 people, which allows you to comfortably film and communicate, the groups are always filled with wonderful people, many of whom travel regularly.
We photograph mainly people. And we don’t just take pictures, but we communicate, we try to understand and feel. This allows us not only to bring beautiful photographs, but also to feel the very essence of each country we visit. Discover not only a new world around you, but also discover something new in yourself.
“These places are so majestic and pure that only gods can live here.”
R. Kipling.
The Spiti Valley is one of those unique places on earth that has retained its original appearance due to its sparse population and inaccessibility. Translated from Sanskrit, “spiti” means “precious place.” This area is a mountain valley, practically devoid of vegetation and located at an altitude of 4500m above sea level. Buddhist monasteries are scattered throughout the valley. It is not for nothing that it is called “Indian Tibet”. Another name for the valley is “Little Tibet”. The life of the local population has been greatly influenced by Tibetan customs and traditions, and today the main population of the Spiti Valley is Tibetans. Unlike the Tibetans, who remained in Tibetan lands occupied by the Chinese, these people, due to the fact that the Spiti Valley is part of India, have fully preserved their culture and traditions, continuing to remain in their homeland. Once upon a time, the trade route to Lhasa passed through this valley. Buddhist monks in those days traveled freely to all the monasteries located along the Spiti, Beas, Parbati, Sutlej and Chandra rivers.
Map of Spiti Valley.
Buddhism first came to Spiti in the 8th century with the great Padmasambhava, an Indian preacher who passed through this valley to Tibet. Buddhism here has survived to this day in its original form. Therefore, pilgrims and tourists from all over the world come here in order to touch it, as well as to see the ancient monasteries and gompas of this region, which are considered one of the oldest shrines of Buddhism that have survived to this day. The Buddhist religion traditions of this area are similar to the Tibetan Bon tradition. A thousand years ago in Tibet, Buddhism was persecuted by the Tibetan ruler, and here, in the Spiti Valley, the Great Teacher, Rinchen Tsampo, lived and preached. He is also known as a translator of Buddhist texts into Tibetan. The great teacher was the founder of many monasteries in Spiti. Today he lives in his next incarnation - the abbot of the Ki monastery.
Spiti, as well as Lahol and Zanskar, were part of the western Tibetan Guge kingdom for several centuries, beginning in the 10th century. Later, the valley came under the ownership of the kings of Ladakh and became part of their kingdom. In 1847, Spiti was captured by the Kashmiri princes, and two years later came into the possession of British India. But this region always maintained close ties with Tibet until the latter was occupied by the Chinese in 1949. The Tibetan government in exile, headquartered in Dharamsala, continues to support the Buddhist monasteries in Spiti to this day.
The valley has an elongated shape from northwest to southeast. In the northwest it is blocked by the Kunzum La pass (4550 m). Not far from the border line with Chinese Tibet, the Spiti River flows through the valley, which merges with the Sutlej River. Both sides of the valley are bordered by ridges with an average height of 5000m, and along the banks of Spiti the locals have created fields. They lie in green patches on the rocky hills, and white adobe huts are scattered along the mountain slopes. Barley and peas are mainly grown here, which are considered the most delicious in India.
Blessed silence, sky and mountains - this is how Spiti Valley greets its guests. The best time to visit it is July-September. The rest of the time, the valley is practically cut off from the world and, starting from mid-October, is practically covered with snow. The same applies to the road to the Kullu Valley. The road to the Kinnor Valley is officially open all year round, but in fact, even in summer it is often impassable for transport, despite the fact that there is no monsoon season in this area. Summer temperatures in the Spiti Valley are no more than 15 o C above zero, and winter frosts are characterized by temperatures down to -40 o C.
These places are reminiscent of Ladakh or Tibet, but they are much more accessible to the average traveler. It can be reached by just a ten-hour bus ride to Kazu from Manali.
The Spiti Valley is part of an interesting tourist route that lies around eastern Himachal Pradesh and connects the Kullu Valley, the Kinnor Valley and the Spiti Valley into a single ring. Some experienced tourists prefer to make this journey on motorcycles, which can be rented in Manali, as well as on mountain bikes, which are better to bring with them. You can also take a trip on a workers' and peasants' bus. This will become a kind of acquaintance with the local population. In order to get from Spiti Valley to Kinnor Valley, you will need to obtain a special permit (border pass). It can be issued in Rekong Pio, in Kaza, or in Shimla. By the way, until 1994, access to the valley was completely closed to foreign tourists.
The regional center of the valley is Kaza. There is a monastery of the Sakya tradition here. On the way to Kazu, you need to cross two high mountain passes - Rohtang (3900m above sea level) and Kunzum (4500m above sea level). Rohtang Pass is a sacred place. It is believed that purification by cosmic energies takes place here. The name “Kunzum” in translation sounds like “meeting place of Ibex”. The mountain (or alpine) goat, Ibex, is quite rare today, and according to Tibetan beliefs, meeting an Ibex is a harbinger of great luck in life for a traveler. Right there on the pass there is a Buddhist stupa, an ancient chorten.
The Spiti Valley is home to the highest mountain settlement in the world with road access and electricity. This is the village of Kibber. Lama from the monastery Tabo Serkang Rinpoche died here in 1983. He was cremated in the area, which today is surrounded by a fence. During the cremation, a spring suddenly began to flow from the stones. It is still in effect today. Around this spring there is a wonderful garden, which seems like a miracle in such a barren area. A small temple was built a little lower. Pilgrims from all over the valley gather to this sacred place.
In the village of Komik there is the famous Tangut Monastery. This monastery is the highest in Little Tibet. Here is the room of Mahakala, a formidable deity and protector of Buddhism. The attributes of Mahakala are a rosary made from the shards of sinners, a tambourine, a rope for catching sinners and a bowl made from a skull. The frightening and formidable appearance of dokshits (wrathful defenders of the faith) speaks of detachment from sin and bodily passions. Only men are allowed to enter the Mahakala room. But even staying near the room of this deity gives an equally tangible effect - a feeling of energy of protection and peace.
In the ninth century, the settlement of Dankar was founded in the Spiti Valley. And at the end of the 16th century, in honor of the victory of the princes of the Spiti Valley over the Ladakhis, a monastery of the same name was built on the top of the mountain. It is three hours' drive from Kaza and is considered the 'capital of Spiti'. The residence of the princes of Spiti has always been and still is here. Today 160 lamas live here. The monastery has an excellent library as well as a well-preserved statue of Vairyochana Buddha, one of the Five Wisdom Buddhas of Vajroyana Buddhism. Dankar Gompa, surrounded by rocky mountains that change color depending on the position of the sun from beige to red-orange, makes an unforgettable impression.
The famous Tabo Monastery is the "house of a thousand thangkas" along with the Column of a Thousand Buddhas. It was built over a thousand years ago and is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries. Tabo is famous for its frescoes, ornaments and figures made of stucco (a mixture of clay and alabaster). But, unfortunately, photography and video shooting are prohibited in the monastery. To the north of the monastery there are several meditation caves. In this place, the Kalachakra (“wheel of time”) was performed by His Eminence the Dalai Lama XIV. And in 2001, the Ki Monastery (16th century) was chosen to transmit the teachings of Kalachakra.
Recently, the Spiti Valley has attracted many travelers because the mummy of the monk Sangha Tenzin is kept in the small village of Guen. It was found in 1975 after an earthquake, at an altitude of 6000m. Using radiocarbon dating, researchers determined the age of the mummy to be 500 years. This mummy is unique in that the deceased monk sat in a special meditation position, pressing his knees tightly to his chest in order to become a mediator between people and animals after death. In addition, the mummy was not made artificially using solutions and other chemicals. The monk, using ancient techniques, mummified himself naturally, tying himself with a jute belt, thanks to which the mummy has been so well preserved to this day.
Once, like Ladakh, Spiti was part of Tibet, but now remains outside its borders. This incredibly beautiful region is isolated from the noisy, all-destructive civilization by mountains and snow. No planes fly here. Local residents and tourists have only bad roads and passes over 4.5 thousand meters at their disposal. Naked mountains, devoid of vegetation, and lunar landscapes. In this place, the energy and power of the earth is felt on a physical level. Once upon a time, the famous Russian artist, writer and traveler Nicholas Roerich organized his horseback expeditions to this mountainous snow-covered region. This is where the Dalai Lama is going to take a break from the bustle of the world. And the potential of these amazing places is so great that they will attract more than one generation of fans of mountain peaks, clean air and unique Buddhist traditions.
Spiti Valley .
Si (Si)-mani (Mani) - Sansk. - “jewel”.
Piti (Piti) - “place”.
Spiti - place of jewels .
The monasteries of Spiti are among the oldest surviving ones. The valley is located on the eastern edge of Himachal Pradesh. It is called Little Tibet because the way of life of the local population has been greatly influenced by Tibetan traditions and customs. This area borders western Tibet. Spiti's population also consists of Tibetans. Due to the fact that Spiti is in India, they have fully preserved their culture and traditions while remaining in their homeland, unlike those Tibetans who remained in Tibet after the Chinese occupation. The road to the Spiti Valley from Kullu lies through two passes - Rohtang and Kunzum. These passes are not high by Himalayan standards, but they are openonly three months a year.
Rohtang Pass
The Kullu Valley is a special place. It is called the valley of the gods and sages who received their revelations here. One such place is Rohtang Pass. Here the purification of both soul and body with high energies took place. According to legend,The Pandava brothers and their sister-wife Draupadi went through the Rohtang pass to look for Svarga (the secret earthly place of the gods, Paradise, in the Tibetan tradition - Shambhala).
Kunzum Pass
Means "meeting place of the Ibex". Ibex is a mountain goat that is practically disappearing from the Himalayan valleys. Meeting an Ibex promises good luck in life. At the pass there is an ancient chorten( Skt. stupa) - a Buddhist ritual structure of certain proportions, erected over the relics of Buddha, great holy lamas, etc. It also houses the temple of Gefang (Geipan), the main deitythe land of Lahaul, who patronizes travelers crossing the pass.
Tabo Monastery
One of the oldest Buddhist monasteries. Built around 996, the monastery is famous for its frescoes and ornaments.and figures from stucco - a mixture of alabaster and clay. The monastery is included in the world-famous historical architectural monument. Was held hereKalachakra hisHis Eminence the 14th Dalai Lama. Photography is prohibited in the monastery. To the north of the monastery there are several caves that the monks use for meditation.
Dankar Gompa
The settlement of Dhankar, formed in the 9th century, is traditionally considered the “Capital of Spiti”. The residence of the princes of Spiti was and is here. The monastery is located on the top of a mountain and was built in honor of the victory of the princes of Spiti over the Ladakhis at the end of the 16th century.century.Surrounded by rocky mountains that change color from pink, beige to orange-red, the gompa leaves an indelible impression on the traveler. NowHerethere are 160 lamas. The monastery has a wonderful library and a well-preserved statue(four in one) Buddha (Variochana), consisting of 4 figures.
Ki Monastery .
One of the largest in the Spiti Valley. The Dalai Lama performed Kalachakra here.It is located near the capital of the valley - Kazy. Very picturesquely located.
Comedian
The famous Tangut Monastery is located in this place. This is one of the highestmonasteries in Little Tibet. Sakya line. Staying here requires some physical preparation.The monastery houses Mahakala's room.
Mahakala
– dharmanal or dokshit - a formidable deity who is the protector of Buddhism. Hisattributes: rosary made from the skulls of sinners, a tambourine, a bowl made from a skull, a rope with a hook for catching sinners. The menacing, terrifying appearance of the Dokshits speaks of aversion from bodily passions and sin. Women are not allowed into Mahakala's room. Staying near the room of this deity gives no less powerful results. you feelenergy of protection and at the same time compassion for all living things.
Mummy of the monk Sangha Tenzin.
The mummy, which has been known since 1975, is called by local residents as the monk Sangha Tenzin. She was found in the village of Guen at a height 6000 meters after the earthquake. Radiologists determined the age of the mummy using radiocarbon dating. 500 years have passed since the monk passed away. In Tibet, similar mummies were destroyed during the Chinese Cultural Revolution. But everywhere they were considered a sacred relic for Buddhists.
Teachings of the Dalai Lama in Kaz.
His Eminence the 14th Dalai Lama will open a monastery of the Sakya lineage in Kaza. This is a colorful sight. Next, he gives a Teaching for two days, the topic of which has not yet been announced. After the Teaching, the Dalai Lama will give the Avalakotishvara empowerment.
Cold, dry, dusty, but dazzlingly beautiful... the Spiti Valley is located in the state of Himachal Pradesh, in the Western Himalayas. The contrast of these places is amazing and unforgettable: the deep blue of the sky stands out against the background of golden, brown hills covered with snow-white snow.
The immediate similarity of this region with Tibet is obvious. Spiti translates to "middle of the earth" due to its midway location between India and Tibet. Another link with Tibet is Buddhism, which is widespread in this part of India. One of the main monuments of Buddhist culture is the Ki (often pronounced Ge) monastery, which is located near the Spiti River.
Surrounded by snowy mountains and glaciers, the incredible monastery stands imposingly on the top of a hill and its appearance resembles an ancient fortress. For centuries, Buddhist lamas served in the monastery. Nowadays, the monastery is often used as a shooting location for Bollywood films.
The monastery was founded in the 11th century. Since its foundation, the monastery has experienced many events: the attack of the Mongols in the 17th century, as well as numerous attacks by other armies in the 19th century. The monastery even survived a fire and an earthquake.
Externally, the monastery has predominantly white and red-brown tones, and the interior walls are decorated with frescoes and paintings. The monastery also houses a collection of valuable works of art, including the famous thangka. The monastery also contains wind instruments and ancient weapons. Currently, about 300 lamas live in the monastery. In 2000, the Kalachakra ceremony was attended by the Dalai Lama himself and more than 1,500 lamas.
Another famous artifact in this region is the mummy of Sangha Tenzin. This mummy is the corpse of a monk who has undergone a rare mummification process. This process began while the monk was still alive.
Following an ancient practice, Sangha Tenzin deprived himself of food to rid his body of fat and dried his skin with candles before dying of starvation. The mummy is very well preserved and is still in the sitting position in which the monk died at least 500 years ago. Currently, the monk's mummy is in the Ki Temple. According to legend, when the monk died, a very bright rainbow appeared and all the scorpions disappeared from the area.
To the south of Himachal Pradesh is the city of Kaza.
Situated at an altitude of 11,980 feet (3,650 meters), Kaza is one of the coldest places in India. Getting here is quite difficult. Either route may be blocked by heavy snow during the winter months.
Kibber is a small village located at an altitude of 14,010 feet (4,270 meters). Like Kaza, it is located in the Spiti Valley. There are about 80 houses in the village. Nearby is the Kibber Nature Reserve, which is home to many plants used in folk medicine.
The mountain ranges around the Spiti Valley are extremely high, averaging about 14,010 feet (4,270 meters) in height. As you would expect, the climate is harsh: in the capital of Kaza, the average temperature is: -37C in January.
The Spiti Valley is one of the most sparsely populated regions of India and this is not surprising given the living conditions. It has a cold climate in which only a few types of grass and shrubs can grow. There is very little precipitation. Residents survive mainly through agriculture.
It's hard to imagine. But these huge mountains were born on the ocean floor and began to grow upward due to tectonic forces. Currently, global warming is having a major impact on the landscape. Thus, rising temperatures reduced snowfall and thereby reduced irrigation water volumes. This is how global warming is doing its job, even in this remote part of the world.
