Apo Island is a small volcanic island with an area of 12 hectares, 30 km from the city of Dumaguete and 7 km from the southeastern tip of Negros Island. It is permanently inhabited by only about a thousand people.
The island, which is part of a marine reserve, has long gained popularity among diving enthusiasts and has become one of the most popular dive sites in the world. In 2008, Sport Diver Magazine named Apo one of the 100 most popular dive sites in the world. Its southern, northern and eastern shores are famous for their huge underwater walls, going to great depths and teeming with exotic species. Here you can see tuna, bigeye trevally, napoleon fish, hammerhead sharks and manta rays. One of Apo's most popular marine life is the clownfish, which "nests" on soft corals. In total, 15 interesting places for diving have been identified around Apo.
Apo is only 1.5 km long and about 1 km wide. More than 650 species of fish and about 400 species of corals have been recorded in the waters of the island. A small fee is charged for visiting Apo and diving and snorkeling, and all the money raised goes to fund the work of the reserve, created in 1982 by the efforts of scientists from Silliman University. At the origins of the creation of the Apo Reserve was Dr. Angel Alcala, who settled on the island in 1951. It was he who became the author of the then revolutionary idea of designing a marine reserve around the islands of Apo and Sumilon to preserve their unique marine fauna. For many years he has been explaining to the inhabitants of the island the importance of sustainable use of natural resources, and how they can benefit from it in the future.
The attraction of the island is the lighthouse, standing on a small hill, which offers a wonderful view of the island and its surroundings. The road to the lighthouse from the village of Apo will take about half an hour. Several subsistence families live near the lighthouse, growing their own food and collecting rainwater for drinking.
Not far from us, some one and a half hours away, there is the tiny island of Apo, which, if there were a road, could be bypassed in less than an hour. And almost everyone who has ever come to the Philippines for serious diving flocks to this small point. The island itself is just the tip of a tropical iceberg, its real beauty is hidden under the water. We have long wanted to ride there, but either with the company it didn’t work out, or with time. And recently, everything finally came together, and I went to Apo with Max and Dasha for three days and two nights.
How to get to Apo?
First you need to get to Dumaguete. We are lucky, we live in Dumaguete)
Then there are two ways:
1) through a travel agency (begged for in any guesthouse, definitely in Harolds Mansion), which can pick up a company for you and organize a transfer or a boat with diving equipment.
2) independently (of course, it turns out cheaper, with more freedom of movement)
Of course, we are for the second method, but if you want to completely relax, you can rely on the agency.
To leave on your own, you need to find a jeepney or a bus to the village of Malatapay, from the pier of which passenger boats leave to Apo. Malatapay is located along the highway to the south on the way to Zamboangita or Bayavan. Jeepneys go to Zamboangita, buses go to Bayavan, choose what you want, tickets are 20 and 25 respectively. How to find a jeepney or a bus to these places - any tricyclist will tell you and take you there.
From the jeepney or bus, ask outside in the Malatapaya area. There, along the long street, where on Wednesdays there is a big market, go to the Malatapai pier. And there's a little building with a canopy where you get boat tickets from this chubby uncle named Yoyong.
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Adjay chose to stay at home with Tako, anyway, he still had the chance to go to Apo soon with friends from Moscow. So there were three of us. This is much better than two, and even more so one, but a little worse than four)) Now I will explain why. I remember that for a long time from a trip to Apo we were stopped by the fact that "normal" passenger boats do not go to the island. Normal - this is in the sense when you come to the pier, sit down with other passengers on the next scheduled boat for some adequate pesos. Well, let's say 100-150. And then in the same way when you want to come back. But there isn't. Months of lazy reconnaissance campaign showed that all neo-islanders are forced to use the non-standard AP scheme - somehow fit into a boat for four or eight. That is, if you are alone and want to sail immediately and not depend on the time of the return of other passengers, you will have to pay for 4 - 2000 pesos for the round trip.
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It turns out that the more you are, the cheaper it goes for everyone. We each cost 666 pesos, which is 333 one way. Not much, Apo is well worth it. But with Ajay it would be better)))
We could have waited for another 4th passenger, someone alone, but it would probably have been a long wait, and the worst thing is that he would have to return when we need to. And vice versa. Uncomfortable.
We took one boat for ourselves, agreed that they would pick us up tomorrow or the day after tomorrow ("tomorrow we will decide, we will write an SMS"), exchanged numbers and drove off.
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If not for the awning, I would have been in the same boat and burned to hell before reaching the island. But on the way back, the awning was not pulled up, because the wind was not in the right direction, but we were already burned out and trained, so we covered ourselves with rags.
On gentle waves, it splashes decently, the bags will be through, not to mention clothes, so it’s better to give them to the boaters right away, who will put them inside the boat under you in a dry place.
40 minutes on the road and sailed. To the left of this pier you will see one of the resorts and a swimming beach, to the right - a village and a rocky beach.
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We were greeted by a good-natured aunt, who explained in which direction which guesthouses (here they are called homestays) and where there are two restaurants. Then we met her more than once and she helped us with directions and general information about the island. But if anything, you can ask everything in the office at the "entrance" to the village next to the church. There, upon arrival, you must sign up for a magazine and pay an island fee of 100 pesos, which goes to maintain the local ecosystem.
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Church.
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And this is an office.
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Here is a rocky beach near the village. Aunts with rags for tourists hang out on the stones, waiting for boats with them.
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Where to live on Apo?
In total, there are two hotels and four homestays on the island. We, of course, went to homestays, because in hotels rooms from 1900 pesos. The most famous homestay is at Mario. There is also one of the diving offices (the prices for diving are on the link).
Aukali in the "hall" in search of the owners.
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Managed to see but failed to photograph the two expensive rooms upstairs (800 pesos, nice, big). But they photographed a simpler room for 600 pesos below.
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And we needed 2 cheap rooms side by side. Let's go look further. We looked into Mary's homestay, and then eventually returned to it, but I'll show it at the end, first where we didn't settle.
Further Mary's on the road to the Marine Sanctuary there is a guesthouse with a strange, poorly remembered name Ronor. My eye broke there on their curtains))) A room for 500, it seems.
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Room-closet for 300. And cho, in India, I lived in such without problems. But not for 300, but that way for 100))
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In general, the rooms are darker than those of Mario and Mary. Let's move on to the last homestay. He has an even stranger name - "H-H", out loud his name is "h-n-h".
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It is generally plywood)) A bed (most likely it will be a mattress on the floor) costs 150 pesos.
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Romance for divers, we did not notice the girls there)))
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But in general, I was glad that you can find such a cheap overnight stay on this island.
We returned to Mary's Homestay, which also turns out to be RoseMarie House.
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There's an average kill room for 500 pesos.
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They gave me this room for 400 as a lonely lonely loner)
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Please note that there is no fresh water on the island, except for rain, so there is no shower in the literal sense in homestays, only a bucket with a ladle. There is a sink, sometimes slightly salted water flows from it, sometimes normal fresh water. Fresh water is carried in canisters from Negros. I don't know about hotels. And keep in mind that there is almost no electricity, or rather, it is limited by the hour. A little during the day and a little in the evening. At 21.00 the whole village is already asleep.
Because of electricity, there is no point in electric fumigators, so mosquito nets, which, as you probably already noticed, are in every room, come in handy.
Maria has everything at home. A sort of Filipino provincial philistinism)
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Breakfast is included in the price of each homestay. We had scrambled eggs with a couple of slices of bread and butter and unlimited tea/coffee.
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And some swifts live above the table. Cardboards were attached there so that the kakahi swifts did not fly into the guests))
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On this balcony we hung out in the evenings before the whole village died out and it was possible with adventures (beware of the little bald girl) to go staring at the stars.
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There are only two restaurants on the island and both are from those two hotels that are more expensive. The first from the village (or rather, on its edge) is Liberty's Lodge. The restaurant is on two floors, both have a good view of the sea. We were generally covered with bliss after walking under the scorching sun - always very cold beer, all the dishes we tried are delicious (although and expensive compared to Dumaguete), and even the boy in the bar played songs of our youth, such as the first albums of Nirvana and Krenberis))
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A concrete panel in the restaurant shows some national heroes crushing the head of Corruption.
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The second hotel + restaurant, or rather, even the resort and the pretty beach attached to it, can be found if you go behind the boats and rocks in the direction of the Negros Strait visible beyond.
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Let's go...
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Let's go...
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We pass in the rocky corridor ...
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There, in the dark, Dasha was attacked by vendors with rags, and Dasha is glad. She did not take a skirt or a sundress with her, she suffered in tight shorts and a shirt. For this island, such clothes do not roll, especially if you swim all the time. And the aunts of sundresses have whole bags.
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I admired the tree up there.
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And Max turns out to have already run ahead, into a paradise landscape ...
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And romantically sat down to admire the rock.
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And right like this.
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This is Apo Island Beach Resort, it has nice bungalows and there is a restaurant hidden somewhere that we will try next time.
The lagoon there is small, but it is convenient to swim in it with children, and I will tell you what beauty there is under water in the next post.
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That's all for today. Then I’ll tell you what to do on Apo if you have never been a diver and why you should beware of a little bald girl)))
Someone there on the third day dies of boredom ...
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And someone falls in love, marries on the island and remains to produce the islanders. Yes, I have seen those
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Apo Island can be safely attributed to the must-see places in the Philippiah and generally fly to the Philippines for places like Apo.
Apo is a very small island south of eastern Negros. with a population of just over 700 people and they are not particularly visible on this island, obviously everyone left for Dumaguete on Negros or even further to Manila. But nevertheless, it is surprising that on such a really tiny island there is officially a population, a school, a municipality, and even a kind of hospital.
The island has a very strange relief, due to the fact that it is of volcanic origin, it is not flat, but consists of a couple of hills, and people are placed on these hills. This hilliness creates an amazing atmosphere that I have not seen anywhere else in the Philippines.
Beaches on Apo, the island has its central beach where boats arrive, the beach can hardly be called a beach in the classical sense, it is rocky and a bit of space with sand, and the sand is more like large coral pebbles than sand. Also, on the reverse side, there is something that can only be conditionally called a beach, but it’s still beautiful, beautiful and atmospheric in its own way.
So why go to the island of Apo.
1. Because Turtles
2. Because Atmosphere
3 Because Diving
Turtles live in the waters of this island right next to the beach, and these are the most not shy turtles I have ever seen on the planet, or rather, they had to not be afraid of curious people. Closer to the coast in shallow water, algae grow and this is their only food here; on the other hand, they do not grow so abundantly, that's how nature played a joke on them and gave us a unique one of the most memorable attractions in the Philippines. Turtles have to crawl in shallow water for this yummy through floating people and overcome their fear of being stroked or grabbed by the shell. The water off the coast of the island is not just transparent, it is crystal. The island is too small to create pollution and the sand is too coarse to create turbidity in the water. Therefore, only here you can really touch the turtle and even swim a little with it holding the shell, but guides and local fishermen ask you not to go far. Of course, I understand everything, but when the turtle is here it is so difficult to resist this temptation. Emotions run high. Watch the video for this article.
The next thing that remains in memory after the island of Apo is an amazing atmosphere. A small island in the middle of a huge sea. High hills and candles. The island does not have its own power station and the generator is turned on here for a couple of hours so that everyone has time to charge cell phones. And after that, the island plunges into silence and darkness, and this feeling that here it is nature and somewhere in the neighborhood turtles are sleeping create a most romantic mood. there is one hotel and a couple of guest houses on the island, there are no more than 50 tourists on the island at the same time. At the end of the evening, everyone already knows each other, everyone got to know each other, and to the sounds of a guitar and to the trembling of candles, the acquaintance continues in a cafe at a hotel or guest house. Such an atomsphere in the Philippines is no longer to be found, tourism has developed to numbers when it is already clubs and crowds.
And of course the island is famous for its super diving. You can often hear that this is the number ONE place in the Philippines for diving and training. Alas, I did not have time to dive, there is nothing to describe. But on the island, indeed, everyone who came dived or studied.
Apo Island left a deep kind, not even a lot of sad impressions that this trip was over. The most atmospheric, kindest and sweetest island. It seems that sometime 40 years ago all the islands that are now dotted with hotels were filled with just such an atmosphere.
How to get to Apo Island
1. To get to the island of Apo, you need to be in Dumaguete. You can get here either from the island of Cebu, sailing from its southernmost point from the port of Loloan (Liloan), Santander. Boats run every hour and cost 120 pesos for 40 minutes.
You can also get to Dumaguete from Tagbilaran
Dumaguete Tagbilaran Ferry Schedule
there 10:30 Tagbilaran - Dumaguete 12:30
back 15:00 Dumaguete - Tagbilaran 17:00
The cost of the ferry is 700 pesos for the open deck which I usually choose and 900 air-conditioned saloon, it can be cold there.
And you can also get to Dumaguete from Siquijor.
Parma departure times of different companies from Siquijor: 5:00, 5:50, 5:55, 9:30, 12:30, 13:00, 12:50, 14:00, 15:00, 15:45, 18: 00 (Saturday) cost 160 -180 pesos
2. From Dumaguete, you need to get to Malatapai Beach, you can do this either by Bus that head to the South of the island through the city of Siaton. For the correct stop, you need to ask the conductor to tell you that you are going to the island of Apo and you need the Malatapai place from where the boats go to Apo. Or there are jeepneys to the city of Zamboanguita, they are also suitable, but you need to ask if the jeepney will pass the exit to Malatapay.
3. You need to squeeze the boat. Here is the hardest part. Unfortunately, this boat does not have a schedule. Boats are sent according to the number of passengers. Therefore, the advice is to arrive early, preferably with a company and wait on the shore to see if anyone else will come. The price for a large boat is about 5000 pesos in two directions, for a small one 2500 pesos in two directions.
Negros Island is the fifth largest island in the Philippine archipelago. The island got its name from the Spaniards, either by the color of the black rocks, or by the original black population - blacks.
Negros is interesting primarily for diving enthusiasts, as well as for tourists who prefer quiet beaches with volcanic sand, inexpensive and comfortable accommodation and travel through the jungle, mountain rivers and waterfalls to noisy resorts. But for us it was more like a transit point, from where we planned to get to the island of Apo. And yet, one cannot ignore the city of Dumagueti, which, like many other cities in the Philippines, was formed thanks to the Spanish colonists in 1572. At the same time, the status of the city was assigned only in 1948.
The main attraction of the city is the Cathedral, built by the Spaniards in the 18th century. Today the cathedral is known as the Church of St. Catherine of Alexandria. Inside is quite spacious and light. The cathedral has a lot of sculptures in the Christian style, and amazing paintings hang near the altar. A short stay on the territory of the temple charges with positive and good mood, it is very quiet and calm here, you feel some kind of security and peace.
In 1811, an observation tower was erected next to the cathedral, which served as a watchtower. Today, the column of St. Catherine is part of the Cathedral. In 1760, only two levels were built, but at that time it was enough to prevent raids. But in 1870, two more upper levels were completed. The building is surrounded by a small garden and a grotto with the image of the Virgin Mary, where believers bring candles and notes with requests.
Opposite the cathedral is a city square with a clock and a commemorative plaque in honor of the fact that America gave the city freedom. I can't say anything special about the area. In fact, this is a small green square that connects one road to another, but quite green and well-groomed.
And, of course, it is impossible not to mention the embankment. Like all coastal cities in the Philippines, the waterfront is the focus of life and entertainment. Along the perimeter of the promenade there are many restaurants, bars, entertainment centers, discos and shops. And besides everything else, it is very comfortable just to walk along the sea in the pleasant coolness of the trees, admiring the endless sea surface.
Personally, Dumaguete made a very positive impression on me. The city is well-groomed, clean, a lot of greenery, the locals are pleasant, always ready to help, constantly smiling. There is a sense of comfort and serenity here. But there is absolutely nothing to do in the city for more than one or two days. But not far away is the fishing village of Malatapai, from where boats leave for the stunning beauty of the island of Apo.
Apo Island is a small volcanic island that is part of a marine reserve. First of all, people go to the island for the sake of diving and snorkeling. The southern, northern and eastern shores are famous for their huge underwater walls, going to great depths and teeming with exotic species. Right from the beach, where boats sail from the island of Negros, you can start your acquaintance with the underwater world. It is here that huge sea turtles live, which are not at all afraid of people, therefore they swim almost close.
I can hardly put into words my emotions from swimming with turtles. It was amazing, an unforgettable experience., Vivid impressions that will remain in memory for a lifetime. There was absolutely no desire to get out of the water, despite the fact that our strength was already leaving us. But still, I had to do it, because it was time to return back to Negros.
While waiting for the boat, we went to a small gorge and there, in the shade of coolness, we spent the last minutes on this wonderful island.
A pleasant bonus at the end of the trip was a leisurely boat ride on the way back, which allowed us to watch the stunning sunset from the sea.
Acquaintance with Apo and Negros went well. We managed to combine the history and nature of the islands. There was no desire to leave, but two more islands of this country were waiting for us ahead. Therefore, with a sense of accomplishment and warmth in our hearts, we set off further to the new beauties of the Philippines.
Treasury of the South China Sea
Between the Philippine islands of Palawan and Mindoro is a vast area known for first-class dive sites. In this zone, you can select sites apo reef And Busuanga Islands. Most of the latter are located in Gulf of Coron.
| Dive site | depth, m |
| 1. apo reef | 2-40+ |
| 2. Apo reef, Shark Ridge | 2-40+ |
| 3. Hunter's Rock | 5-40 |
| 4. Tae Maru | 10-26 |
| 5. Akitsushima | 18-40 |
| 6. Lusong | 0-10 |
| 7. Olympia Maru | 12-25 |
| 8. Mamiya Maru | 23-34 |
| 9. Kogyu Maru | 20-34 |
| 10. Tangat | 18-30 |
| 11. Iraq | 18-40 |
| 12. | 2-18 |
| 13. Black Island | 12-32 |
| 14. Dimakya | 5-17 |
| 15. Barracuda Lake | 0-40+ |
apo reef
The Apo reef has magnificent walls, however, given the fact that the depth of the sea in the reef area reaches 500 meters, you need to remain vigilant and careful when diving. The best time to visit is from December to May. Between March and June, visibility in this area reaches 30 meters, from July to December the sea is rough, so visibility is reduced.
Apo reef, North Wall
The walls are located off the northern coast of the lagoon. They start at 5-10 meters and go vertically down 100 meters or more. The walls are covered with gorgonians and fan corals. Strong currents. There are manta rays and hammerhead sharks. There, in the northern part of the lagoon, are the remains of an old steamer.
Apo reef, Shark Ridge
Shark Ridge- a place in the eastern part of the Apo-reef lagoon, known for whitetip and blacktip sharks and manta rays. The corals leave much to be desired, the sandy bottom begins at 25 meters, however, thanks to the large representatives of the underwater world, this place is always popular.
Apo reef, Binangan dump
It is located in the southwestern part of the lagoon. Of course, the main attraction is the vertical wall, which goes down to great depths, but beginner divers will also be pleased with the amazing gorgonians, soft and hard corals, large schools of tuna, groupers, lobsters and a variety of shellfish.
Hunter's Rock
Hunter's Rock(i.e. hunter's rock) - a sunken island 21 km west of Apo Reef. Finding it is quite difficult, so you need a good guide. The place is famous for the hundreds of sea snakes that live here, hiding under rocks, in crevices or simply swimming around the reef. During the mating season from June to July, their number increases to several thousand, so that the surface of the water is a moving carpet of snakes. Night dives are especially exciting, but the squeamish and faint of heart should refrain from them. Remember: sea snakes prefer to hunt at night.
Busuanga, Coron Bay
Busuanga is an island in the province of Palawan northeast of Palawan Island and southwest of Mindoro. Busuanga is the center of attraction for divers, who are attracted by dugongs and a whole collection of wrecks in Gulf of Coron.
Tae Maru ( Tae Maru)
Tae Maru- A 168-meter Japanese tanker, sunk in 1944 and now resting at a depth of 26 meters. The deck is at a depth of 10 to 16 meters. The bow of the ship is broken, which makes it much easier to get inside the ship. There are many hard and soft corals, sponges, barracudas, sweetlips, groupers, lionfish, surgeonfish, etc. are often found. The current is strong in places. Visibility is often less than 10 m.
Akitsushima (Akitsushima, Akitsushima)
Akitsushima- one of the deepest wrecks in the region. The 150th warship lies on its side at a depth of 38 m. A large side hole, which caused flooding, is well preserved.
Lusong
Wreck south of Lusong Island - a small gunboat - a good site for beginners due to the shallow depth of the ship. Lots of soft corals, sponges, good site for photography as there is always little current, good light and lots of bright objects.
Olympia Maru ( Olympia Maru)
Olympia Maru(aka Morasan Maru, the locals may know it as Hector's wreck) - a 135-meter warship lying on its side at a depth of 25 meters. Lots of groupers and hard corals. The engine room and the cargo hold are available for research.
Mamiya Maru ( Mamiya Maru)
Mamiya Maru- a cargo ship 160 m long. Lying on its side at a depth of 34 meters, it is easily accessible for penetration. Cargo bays are full of building materials, anti-aircraft guns are preserved on the deck. Huge groupers live inside the ship. Hard and soft corals deserve attention. You need to be wary of lionfish hiding everywhere.
Kogyu Maru ( Kogyu Maru)
Kogyu Maru(length 140 meters) with a load of building materials and a bulldozer rests at a depth of 30 meters a little south of Olympia Maru. The deck is located at a depth of 18 to 24 meters. Cargo compartments are easily accessible for penetration. The wreck is deep water, so the time spent at depth is significantly limited, but tech divers enjoy this dive site with might and main, Kogyu Maru often serves as a training dive site for "techies".
Tangat (Sangat, Tangat)
Tangat(in other sources Sangat listen)) is a wreck southwest of Tangat Island. Can be used as a training site, but is also popular with experienced divers. Soft corals and sponges are worth attention. The site is good for photography. Relatively large boxfish (ballfish) are friendly and often serve as an object of photo hunting. It is necessary to be wary of lionfish and other scorpionfish, which are difficult to distinguish in their camouflage in the environment.
Iraqo ( Iraq)
Iraqo- a hundred and fifty meter refrigerated cargo ship with a displacement of ten thousand tons, which has become a haven for tuna and groupers. The ship lies at a depth of 40 meters, the deck is at a depth of 28 to 33 meters. Good condition. The current can be strong.
Gunboat Tangat ( Tangat)
A popular site for diving and snorkeling due to the shallow depth of the boat (2-18 m) and accessibility directly from the coast of Tangat Island. There are few corals and fish, but the lighting conditions and gentle currents make the dive site attractive for photographers.
Black Island
Wreck in the northwest of Busuanga, east of Malachon Islet. Almost nothing is known about him, he does not belong to the Japanese losses of September 1944 and, most likely, is not of Japanese origin at all. The site is popular as a training site for wreck divers, night dives are interesting, photographers will also find something to do here.
Dimakya Island
Beautiful coral gardens teeming with tropical fish and shellfish. There are many groupers, parrot fish, sponges, there are manta rays, turtles. Small depth, beautiful sloping walls. Snorkeling is possible.
Lake Barracuda
One of the most unusual dive sites Philippines. In order to get to the lake, you need to climb to the top of a limestone cliff. The ascent takes 15 to 20 minutes. The water temperature in the lake fluctuates between 30 and 38 degrees, and if you look closely, you can see thermoclines and haloclines. The lake got its name thanks to the one and a half meter barracuda that has chosen it, which gladly accompanies divers and begs for refreshments.
