I begin to tense up and look at him in disbelief. And he continues: “There’s a cool house there, there are Atlanteans inside and you can walk around and take pictures everywhere. Entrance is only 100 rubles.” I thought a museum was offering me something, but then it turns out that it’s a watchman and he needs a hangover, and it’s not a boring museum at all, but an awesome abandoned estate.
The place is called the Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo estate, located next to the Volokolamsk highway in the park of the same name in the north-west of Moscow.
This is a former noble estate near Moscow, which is adjacent to a large green park. It consists of a manor house in the classicist style and a temple from the 17th century; there are also buildings in the pseudo-Russian style. It is a cultural heritage site. According to the watchman, the estate will be restored in 2019, but this is not certain ((
The estate belonged to the Streshnev family. This is a Russian noble family that rose to prominence after the marriage in 1626 of Evdokia Streshneva to Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov. Many of the queen's relatives were granted boyar status. There were 10 children from this marriage, including the future Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. But the family ceased to exist in the 19th century; at the moment there are no descendants.
2. This arch overlooks the Volokolamsk highway. There is also a guard here who will happily escort you inside.
3. The only danger is a bunch of dogs barking and ready to pounce. But the watchman said that they don’t bite, it’s hard to believe, so it’s better to take a stick. 
4. The house consists of three floors with 200 rooms. 
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7. It was once beautiful here. 
8. The photo walk and inspection of all the rooms will take 1-2 hours. 
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11. This is what the roof looks like. 
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14. Despite the fact that somewhere there are no floors, you can walk everywhere calmly. 
15. Found two Atlanteans. 
16. First floor. 
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Also, “eaters” could live here - poor people who barely had enough to eat. Since the 14th century, this area belonged to the boyar Rodion Nestorovich and his descendants, the Tushins. At the end of the reign of Ivan IV, the property was bought by clerk E.I. Blagovo. The village was deserted by that time.
In 1608, False Dmitry II set up camp in these parts. Among his associates was the new owner of the wasteland, Andrei Palitsyn. He soon went over to the side of the authorities, became a governor in Murom, and in 1622 sold Pod'elki to clerk M.F. Danilov. Under him, a village with the same name and the estate church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared on the site of the wasteland (the exact date of construction is unknown).
In 1664, Pokrovskoye was bought by the owner of the neighboring Ivankovo R.M. Streshnev. Since then, the estate has belonged to the Streshnev family.
From the estate to the palace and park ensemble: an architectural and historical cheat sheetThe new owner practically did not rebuild the village: he erected a “boyar’s courtyard” and several outbuildings. In 1685, he ordered ponds to be dug in the upper reaches of the Chernushka River (now mostly enclosed in a pipe) and fish raised in them.
After the death of Ivan Rodionovich, the grandson of the first owner from the Streshnev family, his inheritance was divided by his sons. Pokrovskoye passed to Chief General Pyotr Streshnev. Under him, the estate expanded and transformed: in the 1750s, the church was rebuilt in the Baroque style; in 1766, a stone manor house was erected in the Elizabethan Baroque style with an enfilade of ten state rooms and a collection of paintings of more than 130 paintings.
Peter Ivanovich's joy was his only surviving daughter, Elizabeth. He spoiled her so much that he raised her to be a tyrant. And yet he did not allow his daughter to marry Fyodor Glebov, a widower with a child. Elizaveta Streshneva married Glebov only a year after her father’s death. And when the male line of the Streshnevs was cut off in 1803, she obtained from Alexander I the right to bear the surname Glebov-Streshnev with his descendants.
A mile from the estate, on the banks of the Khimki River, F.I. Glebov built a two-story Elizavetino bathroom house as a gift for his wife. It was a real miracle of architecture, but in 1942 the building was destroyed by a German bomb.
Guide to Architectural StylesIn 1799, Fyodor Ivanovich died, and the estate remained on Streshneva’s shoulders. Elizaveta Petrovna ruled imperiously and despotic. Instead of the old house, a new three-story Empire style was built in 1803-1806. Adjacent to it was a garden with ponds, and 6 greenhouses appeared. The house had a good library and modern technical innovations such as a telescope and microscope.
A beautiful blue, “sugar paper-colored” living room in a large house, decorated a l’antique in the Pompeian style, with beautiful white wood furniture from the late 18th century. Then you walk through a garden with endless straight roads, bordered by hundred-year-old trees, and walk a long way to the Bath House, the entrance to which is guarded by a small marble Cupid. The house stands above a giant cliff, overgrown with a dense forest, which seems to be small bushes stretching into the distance. This charming toy was built by the husband of Elizaveta Petrovna Streshneva as a surprise for his wife. The house is full of wonderful English engravings, good old copies of family portraits. And at every step, in every room, it seems as if the shadows of those who lived here are wandering. In the small red living room you can see the inscription: “On July 16, 1775, Empress Catherine the Great deigned to visit Elizavetino and have tea with its owner, Elizaveta Petrovna Glebova-Streshneva.
At the beginning of the 19th century, on the opposite side of the road from Vsekhsvyatskoe to Tushino (modern Volokolamsk Highway) from the estate, a settlement of 22 elite dachas appeared. They were expensive, and there was a barrier at the entrance to the village. In 1807 N.M. lived here. Karamzin. Here in 1856 to the dacha of the court department doctor A.E. Bersa often visited L.N. Tolstoy. Here he first met Bersov’s twelve-year-old daughter Sonechka, who 6 years later became his wife. Tolstoy stayed in a room for visitors on the first floor, and the children lived with a nanny and servants on the second.
After the death of Elizaveta Glebova-Streshneva in 1838, the estate passed to Colonel E.P. Glebov-Streshnev, and then his niece Evgenia Fedorovna Brevern, who married Prince M.V. Shakhovsky. Due to the suppression of the Glebov-Streshneva male line, she received the triple surname Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva. And Pokrovskoe-Streshnevo began to be called Pokrovskoe-Glebovo.
Evgenia Fedorovna Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva became the last owner of the estate. She decided to turn it into something like a fairy-tale medieval castle.
How to read facades: a cheat sheet on architectural elementsIn 1880, according to the project of A.I. Rezanov and K.V. Tersky, an ensemble of lordly services in the form of a horseshoe was built here. At the end sides of the manor house, 2 outbuildings were built in the form of stylized castle turrets, and the house was built with a crenellated wooden tower, painted to resemble brick.
Many guests came to the estate, especially in the summer. Evgenia Fedorovna was rich: she had a villa in Italy, a yacht on the Mediterranean Sea and a railway saloon car for trips to the south. But she spent most of her time on the family estate.
Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva divided the estate into 3 zones:
1) the surroundings of the house with a regular park and greenhouses and paths in Elizavetino - for the personal use of the family and specially invited guests.
2) “Carlsbad”, that is, the area above Khimki and beyond the Ivankovskaya road. Here you could walk on tickets, fish in the river, and ride boats. The borders of "Carlsbad" were marked by a trimmed spruce hedge.
3) The eastern part of the park from the road to Nikolskoye to the border with the lands of the village of Vsekhsvyatskoye and the Koptevsky settlements. Here you could pick mushrooms and walk on the grass with tickets.
But for a long time Pokrovskoye remained a popular summer cottage.
At the beginning of the 20th century, dachas were rented out at prices ranging from 100 to 2,000 rubles per season, and they were so popular that in the summer of 1908 a bus was launched between Pokrovsky and Petrovsky-Razumovsky.
After the revolution, the estate, together with the dachas, turned into a sanatorium of the Central Committee, and then became the property of a rest home for textile workers. In 1925, a museum was set up in the main house, where the furnishings of the former manor’s estate were recreated. But in 1928 it was closed and ruined. In 1933, a rest home for military pilots was located in the estate, and since 1970 the building was under the jurisdiction of the Civil Aviation Research Institute.
Now the entire Pokrovskoye-Glebovo-Streshnevo area has been declared a protected area. The manor's estate is being restored, although it looks abandoned.
They say that......arriving in Pokrovskoye, Elizaveta ordered a bathhouse to be set up in the neighboring village and complained that there was no manor house there. This is how Elizavetino appeared.
...in the fall of 1943, the atomic nuclear laboratory moved to Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo from Pyzhevsky Lane, and already on December 25, 1946, the first atomic reactor in Europe was launched here.
Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo in photographs from different years:
The Pokrovskoye-Glebovo-Streshnevo estate is located on the site of the Podjolka wasteland, which was first mentioned in scribe books in 1585. At that time, it was owned by Elizar Ivanovich Blagovo, a prominent figure in the second half of the 16th century. The wasteland most likely owes its name to the spruce forests that predominated in this area. At the beginning of the 17th century, A.F. became the owner of the wasteland. Palitsyn, who sided with False Dmitry II, but then went over to the side of the legitimate authorities. In 1622, he sold the wasteland to clerk Mikhail Feofilatievich Danilov, who built a village here. In 1629, a stone “newly arrived church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and in the chapels of the Miracle of the Archangel Michael and Alexei the Wonderworker,” was erected in the village. From this time the history of the village of Pokrovskoye begins. According to the census book of 1646, there are 8 peasant households listed in it (according to other sources, at first the Church of the Intercession was wooden, the stone church was built later, in 1646). After the death of clerk Danilov, F.K. owned the estate for a short time. Elizarov. In 1664, he sold Pokrovskoe-Podjelki to Rodion Matveevich Streshnev. At this time, there are already 220 households in the village. The Streshnevs owned the estate for 250 years. This family was not noble until 1626, when Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov married Evdokia Lukyanovna Streshneva. There were 10 children from this marriage, including the future Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich.
Since then, the family has advanced and taken a prominent place in the court hierarchy. One of the owners of Pokrovsky, Elizaveta Petrovna Streshneva, married Fyodor Ivanovich Glebov and in 1803 obtained permission for her family to be called by a double surname: Streshnev-Glebov. After this, the village of Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo received another name - Pokrovskoye-Glebovo. At the beginning of the 19th century, in the vicinity of Pokrovsky, “houses for summer housing with all their accessories” were rented out. Dachas in Pokrovskoye were always considered fashionable and were very expensive. In 1807, N.M. Karamzin lived here, who worked on the “History of the Russian State.” In 1856, Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo was visited by L.N. Tolstoy, who visited Lyubov Bers there.
Subsequently, he married one of her daughters, Sofya Andreevna. The Church of the Intercession is the oldest building in the area. Built at the beginning of the 17th century, it was rebuilt many times, reflecting in its appearance the dominant architectural trends of different times. In the middle of the 18th century, it was given magnificent Baroque features and a refectory was added. And since 1822 the temple stood, rebuilt in the Empire style. In 1896 it acquired eclectic forms. The bell tower was built in the 1770s. The church fence with the main entrance and corner towers was built at the end of the 18th century. After the 1917 revolution, a museum was organized in the estate. In the 1930s, the museum and church were closed, and the church bell tower was partially destroyed. Divine services in the Church of the Intercession were resumed in 1994.
Object of cultural heritage of federal significance.
After a short break, we finally resumed our trips to former noble estates. This time the choice fell on Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo, located in the north-west of the capital. I already knew that it was owned by the same family that owned Znamenskoye-Raek near Torzhok, and I also heard that it was not so easy to get into this estate. Let's go for luck, I thought that if they don't let us into the territory, we'll look at the beauty behind the fence. But fortunately, our trip fell on Cultural Heritage Day on April 15, and everyone could go to the estate.
We parked the car at one of the towers of the massive brick fence, built in 1880-1890. under the last owner Evgenia Fedorovna Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva.
By the way, one of the architects, according to whose design the estate was rebuilt in the pseudo-Russian style, was the author of the economic yard of the Leninskie Gorki estate.
We approached the gate, which was closed, so we decided to look at the main house from the open area of the Intercession Church.
You also need to go through a small gate. We didn’t go inside the church, we only looked at what was around it.
Now it has become fashionable to improve the territory of Orthodox churches, build observation decks, menageries, cafes and shops.
The church next to the main house in Pokrovsky-Streshnevo was no exception.
There is a children's playground, a poultry house, a cafe, a shop, various master classes are held and music is played. Everything for entertainment.
I can’t say that I’m against this, everything looks quite nice and, probably, it’s better this way than destroyed temples, which evoke sadness and melancholy. Behind the fence you can see a huge manor house.
Now it looks a little ridiculous: the side parts are made of brick, the center is white with a colonnade. There is a certain dissonance felt, as if they had assembled a construction set from different parts.
However, if you know the long history of this mansion, everything will fall into place. In the 14th century, on the site of this estate there was a village surrounded by a spruce forest.
Apparently that's why it was called Crafts. This village, together with neighboring lands, was granted to the boyar Rodion Nestorovich, the founder of the noble families of the Tushins, Kvashnins and Samarins. After this estate was owned by prominent statesmen E.I. Blagovo, A.F. Palitsyn and others. Around 1600, a wooden church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary appeared and the estate received the second name Pokrovskoye. Documents indicate that already in 1646 the temple became stone. They say that not so long ago restorers discovered in the modern temple fragments of walls made in the 17th century.
In 1664, Pokrovskoye was acquired by a relative of the Tsar, Rodion Matveevich Streshnev. His descendants would own the estate for almost 250 years. This family of humble origin rose to prominence when Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov married Evdokia Streshneva. She bore him ten children, among whom was Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, father of Peter the Great. Rodion Matveyevich held important positions under four tsars, including being one of the educators of Peter I and taking part in his crowning ceremony. A boyar courtyard and various outbuildings appeared in Pokrovskoye. He also built ponds in which they began to raise fish.
The estate was significantly transformed under his grandson Pyotr Ivanovich Streshnev. In 1766, he built a manor house in the then fashionable Elizabethan Baroque style and began collecting paintings, including family paintings. They decorated the front rooms of the palace.
In addition, Peter Ivanovich rebuilt the Intercession Church, trying to beg for the life of his next child. It so happened that most of his children died soon after birth. Only the daughter Elizabeth survived, whom her father spoiled terribly from childhood, which naturally affected her character. She chose as her husband a man much older than herself, a widower, and even with a child, F.I. Glebova. The father spoke out against his daughter for the first time, and she got married only a year after the death of her parent. Fyodor Ivanovich Glebov built an elegant palace in Pokrovskoye for his young wife, named Elizavetino in her honor. Now nothing remains of it; according to the official version, the building was destroyed during an air raid in 1942. The main house was rebuilt in 1803-1806. already in the Empire style.
There was a park adjacent to it, and greenhouses were erected nearby. We now see the remains of this house in the center of the mansion of the Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo estate.
So that the Streshnev family would not be extinguished, Elizabeth received permission from the emperor for her descendants to be called Glebov-Streshnevs. They say that during her visit to Moscow in 1775, Empress Catherine the Great honored Elizabeth with a visit. In the 19th century, Pokrovskoye and neighboring estates became popular holiday destinations. In 1864, the estate found a new owner - Princess Evgenia Fedorovna Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva. Since the male line of the family was cut off once again, the surname of the owners of Pokrovsky became triple. Under Evgenia Feodorovna, the manor house was supplemented with side wings made of brick with towers, and the central part of the palace was also rebuilt. From the outside it looked like an impregnable medieval castle.
After the revolution, the estate was taken away from the owners and first a sanatorium was set up in it, then a museum, then again a closed Aeroflot sanatorium. In the 70s In the 20th century, there were attempts to restore the main house, then the central part was returned to its original appearance. In 1992, the palace was badly damaged by fire. After this, attempts were made to restore it, however, due to disputes over the owner, all restoration work was suspended. The area around the main house was closed to the public. Gradually, the old mansion is deteriorating and collapsing, and the park is overgrown.
Walking around the temple complex, we saw that we could go to the main house. There were already quite a lot of people walking around. One guy even approached those who were especially interested and offered to tell them about the estate. Artists stood to the side with easels, trying to capture the unusual brick towers of the main house. We walked a little along the overgrown path of the park and saw in the thickets a preserved antique sculpture, which apparently used to be a decoration of this place.
There were other statues in the park, but only this one has survived. We go further and see a destroyed building with broken windows. This was once a greenhouse.
We walk around the house, admiring the elegance of the central part of the mansion, bas-reliefs and strict columns.
At the same time, the powerful brick towers evoke some awe; a truly mystical energy emanates from them. On one side, near the side wing, we see an obelisk and an elegant pine tree.
The tree, they say, was planted by Princess Evgenia Fedorovna Shakhovskaya-Glebova-Streshneva in 1886. But there is quite contradictory information about the obelisk. Some mention the legend that one of the Streshnev children was saved by a dog, in whose honor this monument was erected. Allegedly, a figurine of a dog decorated the top of the obelisk. Others claim that the monument was erected in honor of the tercentenary of the Romanov family, of which the Streshnevs were the ancestors.
Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo is an amazing estate, beautiful and sad in its ruin at the same time. It is a pity that despite the honorable status of a monument of federal significance, it never found its zealous owner who would bring it into decent shape. After my trip, people wrote to me that access to the territory was closed again, so I associated our luck in visiting it with cultural heritage days. I don’t know if this is true. However, even from the territory of the Intercession Church you can see the amazing manor house from the park side and imagine the scale of its former luxury.
The Pokrovskoye-Glebovo Forest Park is one of the most beautiful green spaces in Moscow, located on the territory of a former estate. Here, in the north-west of the Russian capital, the village of Podjelki was located in the Middle Ages, and in 1629 the magnificent Church of the Intercession of the Blessed Virgin Mary was built. The built Pokrovskoye estate was later named after the name of the church. It belonged to the noble Streshnev family, who were relatives of the Romanov dynasty. Evdokia Streshneva was the wife of Tsar Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov, the mother of Alexei Mikhailovich Quiet. From that time on, the estate began to be called Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo.
At the beginning of the 19th century, it received a new name: Glebovo-Streshnevo, or Pokrovskoye-Glebovo. This is due to the peculiarity of the double surname of the new owner of the estate, Elizaveta Streshneva-Glebova. From the end of the 19th – beginning of the 20th centuries. Small residential dachas began to appear one after another near the estate. At one time, famous people of that era lived here: historian N.M. Karamzin is the author of the immortal volumes “History of the Russian State”, doctor A.E. Bers, whose daughter met her future husband L.N. Tolstoy in Pokrovskoye. Another wealthy philanthropist, a doctor by profession, S.P. Botkin allocated large funds for the reconstruction of the Intercession Church.
In the post-revolutionary period, the estate, together with the dachas, became state property and was turned into a Central Committee sanatorium, and then became the property of a rest home for textile workers. In 1925, a museum was organized on the territory of the estate, which was soon ravaged and completely destroyed.
Currently, the green area around the former estate is divided into two main parts. The forest park is divided by the Volokolamsk highway and the ring railway. The southern part of the planting, located near the Shchukinskaya metro station, is the most well-groomed. It is called the Pokrovskoye-Streshnevo Park. The northern part is the Pokrovskoye-Glebovo park. In addition to the usual Russian birch, pine, ash, maple, elm and oak trees, the forest park contains larches, majestic cedars and decorative willows, bending over the banks of ponds that overgrow in the summer. The linden alley is especially attractive, fragrant with its unique aroma.
A favorite vacation spot for Muscovites is the beach area of the park. On the banks of the Khimki River there is a spring bearing the symbolic name “Swan Princess”. It is recognized as the only environmentally friendly source within Moscow, the water of which not only quenches thirst in dry summers, but also has healing properties. Now the Pokrovskoye-Glebovo-Streshnevo area, in accordance with the architectural plan of the capital, has been declared a protected area. Active restoration of the manor's estate is underway, and the temple is being restored. In addition, thousands of people come here to breathe in the fresh park air and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the dusty metropolis. After all, this is precisely what a person sometimes lacks for true and genuine happiness!
How to get from the metro:
You can get to the Pokroveskoye-Streshnevo-Glebovo park as follows: from the station. m. "Voikovskaya" by trolleybus No. 6 or 43 to the stop "Cinema and Concert Hall "Swan", then walk 5 minutes.
